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Lift questions...


 
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VVMotors
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Joined: 06 Apr 2005

PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 7:38 pm    Post subject: Lift questions... Reply with quote

I'm going to be purchasing an "05 Rubi Unlimited soon and have plans for a lift and new tires. Here's the plan:

Rubi Unlim. w/4 spd auto
Fabtech 6" Long Arm setup
35x12.50's on 15x8's

Now for the questions:

- Should I beef up the power steering? With what?
- Do I need to recalibrate the speedo going from 31's to 35's? If so, do I use a programmer for this and change my shift points also or ?
- Should I swap out 4.10's for something lower? How will my highway speed be? (I meant RPM's)

Thanks in advance for the help. I want to do it right the first time.

Ryan
Victorville Motors
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WhatWasIThinkin
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Joined: 02 Jan 2004
Location: Epping New Hampsha

PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 3:25 am    Post subject: Re: Lift questions... Reply with quote

VVMotors wrote:
I'm going to be purchasing an "05 Rubi Unlimited soon and have plans for a lift and new tires. Here's the plan:

Rubi Unlim. w/4 spd auto
Fabtech 6" Long Arm setup
35x12.50's on 15x8's

Now for the questions:

- Should I beef up the power steering? With what?I would suggest an inline oil cooler and beef up the steering components. ie: drop link, tierods etc.

- Do I need to recalibrate the speedo going from 31's to 35's? If so, do I use a programmer for this and change my shift points also or ?I fairly sure that you can still calibrate the speedo with a new gear. But the EPU will need recalibrated also anyway. This is realy important with an auto tranny

- Should I swap out 4.10's for something lower? How will my highway speed be? (I meant RPM's)4.10's are a little tall for 35's but the auto tranny can be fairly forgiving with tire changes. 4.56's would be better or even 4.88's. I dont think you will notice a huge difference with the 4.56 on road as much as you will in 4lo offroad. You will lose some of the crawl with bigger tires, but regearing to 4.56 or 4.88 are the only way to get the natural crawl back.

Thanks in advance for the help. I want to do it right the first time.

Ryan
Victorville Motors


Since your allready on your way to spending a small fortune anyway, you may want to check out the Hypertech Power Programer.

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ehirner
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Joined: 01 Jan 2004
Location: Eastern PA

PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spend your money of something other than the Fabtech. The control arms aren't built very strong and are easy to bend. Also, the lack of adjustability is a major downfall of this system.
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VVMotors
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Joined: 06 Apr 2005

PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since posting that, I've been leaning towards the Full Traction setup. Much better? If not, what advice does anyone have on a good 6" long arm setup?
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Code3TJ
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been looking at the Full Traction set-up too. Haven't read a whole lot about it yet, though.
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ehirner
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2005 6:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

VVMotors wrote:
Since posting that, I've been leaning towards the Full Traction setup. Much better? If not, what advice does anyone have on a good 6" long arm setup?

I prefer and recommend something that has individual triangulated uppers in the rear rather than the wishbone with single attachment point like FT uses. RE has a triangulated kit coming shortly for their LA...I don't remember if it's individual arms or a wishbone. Clayton HardArms use individual arms but it's a fully weld-on kit. RK makes a bolt-on kit with individual arms.

Being that the kit will be on an Unlimited, my only recommendations at this time for a LWB LA kit are Clayton and RK. These are the only companies that relocated the rear CA mounts and didn't lengthen the CAs. Lengthening the CAs makes them hang lower and positions them nicely to be damaged by rocks and other obstacles offroad.
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VVMotors
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2005 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought the FT setup was a four link front/three link rear, triangulated. No?
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Code3TJ
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2005 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This one?

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ehirner
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2005 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

VVMotors wrote:
I thought the FT setup was a four link front/three link rear, triangulated. No?

It is. Notice the wishbone with single attachment point in the picture Troy posted??? I prefer individual triangulated upper arms. This gives you a bit more piece of mind as there is physically one more attachment point with a Clayton or RK setup. Should the upper arms break on a FT or other wishbone setup, you're screwed. With 4 individual arms, you should be able to limp...and I mean limp...it home. Or at least off the trail or out of the lane of traffic.

Take a look at these pics of the Clayton HardArms on my Unlimited. Take note of the individual triangulated arms.



A pic of the frame mounts for the rear CAs.


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VVMotors
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2005 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ehirner,

Nice. I understand better now. Could you post a whole shot of your Unlim. showing the stance? Or any articulation shots? Thanks.
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ehirner
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2005 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only one I have online right now.

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VVMotors
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK guys, thanks for your help. Here's the plan. I'm going to Iraq for a few months (I'm a UAV pilot) and when I get back I'm getting my Rubi done up. This is what I've decided on based on my needs and personal prefs.

05 Rubi Unlimited Sahara (I'm a sucker for khaki on khaki)
I'm going with the 6-spd.
Fabtech 6" High Crawler system with Dirt Logic 2.5 coilovers.
35" MT/R's on black steelies.
swappin out to 4.88's
other goodies.

I know you're thinking "poser" right now, but I plan on doing the Rubicon and Moab and using my Jeep as much as humanly possible. This will not be a pavement-only Jeep!

I won't be a tool I promise!
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