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93 zj t-case problem, and others

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grandjeeper
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Joined: 17 Sep 2005
Location: greenville sc

PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2005 3:20 pm    Post subject: 93 zj t-case problem, and others Reply with quote

dude, love this forum, was suggested by a friend of mine.
ight well, to the jeep.
i bought a 93 ZJ 4x4 with 100,000 miles. i had to rebuild the rear end, no problem. then my passager window stopped workin. then my water pumb broke. and since i bout it i havent been able to get my t-case to go to neutral or 4-lo. i can get 2wd, 4 part, but no neutral or 4 low. it feel like there is something stuck or something. i dont know.

oh, also... what do yall think about the dana 35 c-clip. i have heard procarious things about it. is it sturried or what. i ask becuase im thinkin of putting a power trakx in the rear.

thanx for the help
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93 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 I6, 2inch spacer lift, 31 BFG AT,
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ThePhantum
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Joined: 23 Jan 2004
Location: I knew it...I'm surrounded by Assholes!

PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2005 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have to have the transmission in neutral in order to get it into 4lo. If it's never been used it will take a little muscle to shift it in. Since the t-case is not going into neutral as well, it might be a problem with the linkage as well.

As for the D35, personally, I think it's a turd...but I like to play on the rocks. Wink

It really depends on what size tires you're running and your wheeling style...in other words, how hard do you plan to stress it? If you're a "gun it n go" type of wheeler, upgrade. If you prefer to finese the skinny pedal, it should be fine.
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grandjeeper
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Joined: 17 Sep 2005
Location: greenville sc

PostPosted: Sun Sep 18, 2005 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sweet, thanx i will try that.
as for my off road style, i dont really know. i do a lot of mudd, but not very heavy on the trottle. do some more extreme type stuff in North carolina, but not much. whould a power trax locker help or hurt me.
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grandjeeper
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Joined: 17 Sep 2005
Location: greenville sc

PostPosted: Sun Sep 18, 2005 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok i shot the likage with some wd-40 and was able to losen it up.
now it will go from 2wd-4part-neutral-and then i think it goes to 4lo.
i have a digital display in the bottom of the console, and it will say 2wd ( when you are in 2wd), 4part (when in 4 part), neutral ( when in neutral), but when you pull all the way back in to 4 lo, it says partime still.
what does this, and what the hell is goin on
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Code3TJ
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Joined: 01 Jan 2004
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 18, 2005 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could be an electrical problem or it's not going into 4lo. What's it doing physically when you try to drive in 4lo? Does it feel like you're applying the brakes at the same time you're accelerating?
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grniydbandit
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Joined: 07 Sep 2005

PostPosted: Sun Sep 18, 2005 6:12 pm    Post subject: sticky t-case Reply with quote

I had the same problem a little sticky just make sure it's clean and use it once in a while if you don't use it then it gets dirty and tough to move.
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grandjeeper
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Joined: 17 Sep 2005
Location: greenville sc

PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 3:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i belive it is now in 4-lo, even though it still dont say it is. b/c it feels like i am dragging a tree be me when i am in 4-lo
thanx guys.
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grniydbandit
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BE VERY CAREFUL!!! 4 LO was not designed to operate for extened periods of time or at high speeds.
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ThePhantum
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's going into 4Lo. You're confusing part time and full time 4WD with High and Low.

Part time 4wd has a high range and low range and is only used on loose surfaces, it's not meant for use on pavement. So, regardless of whether you are in high or low, the indicator will say "Part time".

There is an option for full time 4wd which can be used on pavement. Based on your description of the shift lever, you don't have the full time option.

Hope that clears it up for ya. Wink
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grandjeeper
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Joined: 17 Sep 2005
Location: greenville sc

PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeap, sure does thanx.
i am now currenely putting on a coil spacer lift. is the best way to do that is to use a coil spring compresor
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ThePhantum
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Althogh it would make it a bit easier, you can do it without them.

On the rear - drop the shocks and sway bar links and they should go in pretty easily (you may have to disconnect the rear trackbar, but I doubt it)..

On the front - drop the shocks, sway bar links, track bar (at the frame) and the drag link (at the pitman arm). That should allow you to get the axle far enough down to get everything in. Just watch the brake lines and make sure that you don't put too much pressure on them.
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grandjeeper
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Joined: 17 Sep 2005
Location: greenville sc

PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alright i got the front spacers on, took awhile, but there on. but there now is a new problem. when the jeep is in motion, there is a scrapinp (metal on metal) sound coming fromt the front of there car. i took the tires off and noticed that the brake pads need to be replaced, that would explain the noice, but what would cause it to do it now after i put the lift on.
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cajzmere
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Joined: 19 Jul 2005
Location: Rochester, NY AKA NY Tundra.

PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2005 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Extending the brake hoses acts like keeping a light foot on the pedal reducing your clearance by a fraction, so.... pads touch more.
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grandjeeper
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Joined: 17 Sep 2005
Location: greenville sc

PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2005 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

is the best way to fix this problem to get brake hose extensions, or is there an easier way
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swamp boy
Cherokee Muderator
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Joined: 01 Jan 2004
Location: New Orleans LA.

PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2005 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would personally just take the bolt out of the line hanger on the fender well and pull the hard line a little it will give you quite a bit of travel then you can take a sheet metal screw and resecure it at its new lower point..

Easy as pie..
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