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How do i get a Dana 44 up front


 
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josh
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Joined: 21 Jan 2006
Location: Washinton

PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 3:34 pm    Post subject: How do i get a Dana 44 up front Reply with quote

Is there anything that will pretty much drop right in? I keep seeing Scout stuff, but haven't found any wrightups
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Code3TJ
Hacker
Hacker


Joined: 01 Jan 2004
Location: Uzbekistan

PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 2:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CJ-7, right? Not really unless you order a custom axle. Here's some good reading though.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/convaxle/sjd44front.html
http://www.in2jeep.com/cjaxleswap.htm
http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-corner/project-cj7/project-cj7-index.htm
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cj847
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Joined: 25 Jan 2006
Location: Arkansas

PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been going thru this agony recently also and will tell what I've found.

There is no axle that I can find that is a bolt in swap for a CJ. The CJ spring perches are 27.5" apart (I have seen this number listed as 28" on the internet, but I've checked, it's 27.5"). This is the narrowest spring placement of any vehicle I've found (not sure but I think even Sami axles have wider perches).

There is no axle that I can find that can have the passenger side sping perch relocated such that the axle will stay centered under the CJ using the original (27.5") spring width. (ie your passenger CJ spring would be sitting on top of the pumpkin if you center most axles).

I have checked D44's, Toyota's, etc, etc. The closest thing to a D30 is the Toyota (perch width approx 29.25"). However, this perch is already nearly on top of the pumpkin so moving it over another 7/8" will result in you not being able to drop the 3rd member).

I think you have only two options once you remove the D30. 1) Relocate your spring hangers outboard of the frame (If you do this I would recommend going to 31.5" (full size width). At that point virtually any full size axle will bolt up to your springs. 2) Shorten your new axle on the drivers side such that the factory passenger perch will line up with your current CJ sping (the Nutter article). In my mind both of these are huge expensive projects. If you are going to this much trouble go 1 ton or pay big bucks and get custom axles made that will bolt right in.

If someone finds an easier way please let me know!
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dsl4me
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Joined: 22 Jan 2006
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The previous owner installed a scout Dana44 into my CJ5. IIRC he shortened the long axle tube, by cutting the weld @ the tube/knuckle to get the same width as the stock '30. Sent the axle shaft to Moser and had them shorten and respline. Moving the spring perch is the easiest of obsticals.

This was done ~9yrs or more ago and still going strong. Was part of the reason I bought the Jeep, saves me the time of doing it. IMO full size axles defeats one the advantages of having a Jeep, loosing the narrow track width.
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Trigger5150
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Joined: 05 Apr 2006

PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

New here, but Poison Spyder Customs makes a kit that will allow you to bolt a full size axle into a CJ7. It runs around $400. I'm sure there's more you will need, but it's a good start.
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Jeepboy
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Joined: 16 Apr 2006
Location: Gilbert AZ

PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2006 1:09 am    Post subject: How do i get a Dana 44 up front Reply with quote

I just stumbled across this site from another and just couldnt resist registering, so Hi.

I slapped some Scout II axles under my heap just a couple months ago. It is very EASY.

For the front just move the shackle to rear and widen the spring distance. I had to widen it almost 3ins on each side. Its realy tough to discribe it with out pics but since I dont know how to post pics on this site bear with me. I cut out a hole in the frame were the new shackle would be and welded in a peice of 1/4in DOM tubing that stuck out the 3ins that I needed and put 2 1/2 shock bushings in it and thats where the bolt goes for the shackle then just cut and bend some metal to make the shackles, I used 2in x 3/8in for that.

Then for the front part I made a bracket that extended away from the frame. Thats how I managed to widen the spring distance. It does take time, and a lot of welding upside down, but if youre a decent fabricator and have a welder, cuting torch, grinder, and can measure three times before cutting, its no big deal.

For the rear I just cut the perchs off the axle and rewelded them in the right place. But while I was going to all the trouble of making new braketry I lowder all the mounts 2in in the front, and 3in in the rear for an extra bit of lift.

Some said that the front pinon angle would be real close and they were right. It has clearence but not an incredible amount. If you reached highway speeds in 4wd (like I can) It would most likely vibrator your teeth out. I say who cares, I never get over 10mph at the most, and with all the bumps on trails the drivshaft vibration is the last thing on my mind. Ive never had any issues thus far at least.

All in all it was the best thing Ive ever done to my rig. Before I had almost no articulation but now with all the extra leverage its awesome. It flexs like crazy! The Scout II axles added 9in in total width. That = AWESOME!!
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12volt
Member


Joined: 07 May 2006
Location: Lewisville, TX

PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2006 3:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just finished putting one into an 84 CJ last month. Pretty Much the same as jeepboy, I just outboarded the springs. Will post pics soon.
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