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Axle Wrap D35 (90 XJ)


 
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JtotheEEPxj
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Joined: 01 Nov 2005
Location: Antelope, CA

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 10:15 am    Post subject: Axle Wrap D35 (90 XJ) Reply with quote

I just got done installing a 6.5" Rough Country lift on my 90 XJ. It's got 33x12.5's and it started throwing out U-joints and breaking the strap bolts that hold the cups to the pinion. I've tried just about everything, and my driveline is in good shap (not bent or broken). All the mounts are ok, and its got all new springs and u bolts. I also did the t-case drop and angle shims.

Is there anything anyone makes to help this problem, like traction bars or some type of brace to hold the axle/spring better in the back. If anyone's had this problem before, i've heard it's common on cherokees, thanks for any info
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"If it ain't dented, ya ain't wheelin' hard enough"
-1993 XJ, 4.0, 5 spd, 4.5" lift, 32's, Warn bumper, JKS link kit, skid plates, D30 & 8.25 w/ 4:56's & Detroit locker
-1965 Ranchero, new paint & interior, 302, C4, torque thrust II whls
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Tarakian
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Joined: 09 Feb 2006
Location: Texas

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it axle wrap, or could it be driveshaft/pinion angles. If its angles, you could put in a Tcase drop, that should help the angles
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86 XJ with the dreaded 2.8, but that makes a heck of a racket now, so I am saving up for the 3.4

86 XJ 2.5L, 5spd, just got it...
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ehirner
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Joined: 01 Jan 2004
Location: Eastern PA

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tarakian wrote:
Is it axle wrap, or could it be driveshaft/pinion angles. If its angles, you could put in a Tcase drop, that should help the angles

I'm betting driveshaft angles. I'm not very familiar with XJs, but I would guess that 6.5" puts a nice angle on your rear driveshaft. Do you have a SYE installed?
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srb96bravo
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Joined: 09 Oct 2005
Location: Golden, CO

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow yeah, 6.5 and you NEED a SYE. 4.5 inches and your really pushing it with shims and t-case drop, you have bad vibration and angles, not to mentin possibly over extending the SY. If you are at 6.5 with just the mods you mentioned its the driveshft/pinion angles that's causing your problems? I assume your getting vibration all the time, not just under accel. right? I was at the point but with about 4.5, onyl shims and t-case drops and I had to be very careful driving, especially under accel. at low speeds. As soons as I was able to get the SYE and new shaft it was a LOT smoother all around, and gained the mpg back that was lost in vibration and a little power. So at 6.5 inches of lift I'd say it pretty much critical you get the SYE done, even more so if you take it off road.
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Drake69
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Joined: 26 Mar 2004
Location: Stormtroopin....

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 12:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, an SYE sounds in order here. You can measure and order an SYE to suit your needs, or you can order an SYE kit that makes it easier and faster to do. Here is a writeup that can help, but this one involves removing the drive shaft completely. Another method involves leaving the shaft partially connected but free to spin, measuring 1" out from the t-case end, and then putting your Jeep in gear and cutting while the shaft is spinning. I am not 100% sure how this is done since I didn't see all of it, but it does make it easier to accomplish.
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ThePhantum
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Joined: 23 Jan 2004
Location: I knew it...I'm surrounded by Assholes!

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What Drake is talking about is the difference between a full CV conversion and doing a RE hack and tap. A full conversion will cost you more money, but it's a better way to go IMHO.

There's nothing wrong with a hack and tap SYE, the end result works well. However, it's a royal PITA to drill into the output shaft and then tap threads for the CV flange. I've been involved in installing a few of them now and the one thing I learned was that I'm not doing it again. First you have to cut the output shaft without letting it get so hot that it warps...good times:


Then, you get to do hours and hours of this, because the shaft eats drill bits...and god forbid you break one and it gets stuck:


...and even after you finish all that you still have to tap the threads by hand.

Skip the hack and tap. Just get your measurements and order the full conversion. Then you can pull the t-case and do all the work on a bench in a much more comfortable position. Plus, you'll be opening the t-case so you can inspect it's components for wear as well. Well worth spending the extra money on a full conversion.

My $0.02
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