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Easy way to install new brake lines? Vibrations!


 
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srb96bravo
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Joined: 09 Oct 2005
Location: Golden, CO

PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2006 11:25 am    Post subject: Easy way to install new brake lines? Vibrations! Reply with quote

Ok, two things sort of:
1. I getting ready to install some extended brake lines. I understand I need to make sure the MC nevers goes dry, so is there an easy way to change the lines without losing lots of lfuid? I was thinking just make sure the MC is full before I start, then unhook a fitting and plug it as quick as i can, either rubber cap, or tape, or a finger, then do similar for the other end of the section of hose? Just try to loose as little as possile then bleed the whole system afterwards?

2. Vibration- in what seems to be the front end. very noticable when im slowing down, only like 25 mph and slower. Pretty sure there's a small amount of play in my front u joints, so im guessing they're the main culprit, but is there a chance it's the wheel bearings? Would you reccomend I change the u-joints first and see? Or is one better to try first (easier and less expensive parts? u joints are cheap, are they more work then wheel bearings?)
Thanks a lot.....
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srb96bravo
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Joined: 09 Oct 2005
Location: Golden, CO

PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So no one knows either? U joints are cheap, but I thought pretty invovled. Wheel bearings, more expensive?
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ThePhantum
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Joined: 23 Jan 2004
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 1:40 pm    Post subject: Re: Easy way to install new brake lines? Vibrations! Reply with quote

As far as the brake lines, you got it. Make sure th MC is full and do it as quickly as possible.

Bearing vs. U-joints...they are about the same amount of work. Once you pull the axle shafts to get to the U-joints, it's only 3 more bolts to pull the unit bearings. You can also pull the bearing and axleshaft as one unit, but then you still have to separate them to replace the bearings. The bearings are expensive, though...they cost me $135 apeice when I replaced mine awhile back.

srb96bravo wrote:
Ok, two things sort of:
1. I getting ready to install some extended brake lines. I understand I need to make sure the MC nevers goes dry, so is there an easy way to change the lines without losing lots of lfuid? I was thinking just make sure the MC is full before I start, then unhook a fitting and plug it as quick as i can, either rubber cap, or tape, or a finger, then do similar for the other end of the section of hose? Just try to loose as little as possile then bleed the whole system afterwards?

2. Vibration- in what seems to be the front end. very noticable when im slowing down, only like 25 mph and slower. Pretty sure there's a small amount of play in my front u joints, so im guessing they're the main culprit, but is there a chance it's the wheel bearings? Would you reccomend I change the u-joints first and see? Or is one better to try first (easier and less expensive parts? u joints are cheap, are they more work then wheel bearings?)
Thanks a lot.....

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srb96bravo
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Joined: 09 Oct 2005
Location: Golden, CO

PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks, guess u joints are the cheapest, start with those. Been searching for write-ups but no luck on more detail than just the process of replacing the u joint itself, reccomendations?
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ThePhantum
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're going to need either an impact gun (preferred) or a big ass breaker bar. The nuts that hold the shaft to the unit bearing are torqued on at around 200 or so ft/lbs....so you'll also need a torque wrench that goes to 250 lbs to torque them back down.

The first time I took them off mine I actually broke a 1/2" breaker bar. It was an old one...but still.
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srb96bravo
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Joined: 09 Oct 2005
Location: Golden, CO

PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the warning, have a 3 foot pipe laying around, but have to rent that torque wrench.
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srb96bravo
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Joined: 09 Oct 2005
Location: Golden, CO

PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, done some looking around...a 200lbft torque wrench is going to be pricey and haven't found anyone who has one rated that high, any ideas? I will check out more rental places though. If I'm doing the u joints, I may as well wait longer so i can buy the wheel bearing/hub assemblies anyway, it's got 130k miles and bigger tires I fugure they need replacement. I've found them for $150 , where'd any one get them cheaper?
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ThePhantum
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My highest rated torque wrench is a 250lb Craftsman click type. I think I paid around $100 for it.

I got my unit bearings from Carquest.
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Bob709
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Joined: 16 Jul 2006
Location: Oklahoma

PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So how did it turn out? I've got the same issue on my 96 GC and was getting ready to just replace the wheel bearings until I read your post.

Did you try the U-Joint first --- Did it fix the problem?


Thanks
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srb96bravo
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Joined: 09 Oct 2005
Location: Golden, CO

PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2006 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, sorry I'm replying so late, been gone all summer no internet access. I did switch out the bearings and those U joints as well, PITA, the axle nut was really stuck on one side, used PB and torch and still broke 2 different 1/2in drive craftsmans. In the end I did notice a difference, about 1/3 of the ujoints ends just spilled the dry rusted needles when the cap came off, so those were good to get done. They may have been part of the problem. The wheel bearings I pulled off were in bad shape, but I did have to beat the crap out of them to get them off. Hope this helps.
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