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Serious Problem I think

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mycatsdied
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006

PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 12:51 pm    Post subject: Serious Problem I think Reply with quote

OK So I hoped in my jeep this afternoon and as I was backing out it felt a little sluggish. I started driving forward and the engine just started sputtering it didnt quite stall but it was about to to. I pulled back into a parking space and when I put it idle it sputtered and died.

SO i started it up again and it reved itself up real high to keep from sputtering and it ran in idle with a few sputters here and there and then I revved it up and After i reved it up it quit again.

I popped the hood open and heard a gurgling sound and when I crawled underneath It was definatley coming from the oil tank. Also there was a small amount of what i believ to be water leaking out of the front bottom of the muffler and an even smaller amount leaking out from the same spot on the rear of the muffler.

The check engine light comes on so I tried to get an error code but it didn't give me one.

Also there was a very severe thunderstorm in my area last night with lots of rain.

ANy help would be greatly appreciated thanks
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mycatsdied
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006

PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 3:58 pm    Post subject: ok here is a little updated information Reply with quote

OK so was able to get ahold of somone who knows quite a bit about jeeps.

He said that what probably happend is that some water got into the intake manifold and the car just needs to burn it off.

So he told me to run the car for like 45 min and sit in and watch the guages and listen for odd noises and stuff. Then if everything seemed fine to drive it around the parking lot a few times and see if it sputtered or anything. SO I did what he said. and it was idling fine. When I tried to drive it was still sort of skipping a beat every so often. He said it was probably misfiring.

In addition to that he had me disconnect the positive terminal from the battery for 10 min and then reconnect it. He said something along the lines of if it doesnt come back on it was a soft code and if it does come back on it was a hard code.

So I did that too and the light stayed on which means that its a "hard code"?. However it is still not giving me a code when I try and get it. WHat does this mean? He recommend that I take it to the dealer and have run a diagnostic test on it.

Does this sound right or wrong to anyone? Im just looking for some feedback.
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Code3TJ
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Joined: 01 Jan 2004
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What year is it and what kind of intake do you have? Was the hood closed during this storm? I can't see a lot of water getting into it if it wasn't raining and the hood was closed, but I guess anything's possible. If you're not able to get the codes to show at all (again, not sure what year you have) you can take it to Autozone or someplace similar to get them to scan the codes for you for free. Oh yeah, the moisture dripping from the muffle on start-up doesn't sound that unusual.
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TJ Apex
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Joined: 29 Jul 2005
Location: Mountains of SoCal. 6257 elev.

PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 4:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you went "puddle jumpin" to get that much water in the intake.
When oil returns to the oil pan it does make a gurggling sound that can be heard from the outside...sometimes.
I'd do a dip stick check to make sure you don't have water in the oil. after you've run it it will look milky and thats bad.

Autozone will do a code check for you for free as mentioned before.
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mycatsdied
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006

PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 6:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey thanks for the reply's guys ... I was wrried I was going to get an answer. I am on my way to autozone right now to get the codes read.

sorry its a 99 sport. Yes the hood was closed during the storm. the top was up but the doors and windows were not on. NO puddles ... just asphalt and parking lots. I have even had a chance to go out yet. Th guy I was supposed to go with had his transfercase explode.
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KnightFire
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Joined: 07 Jan 2004
Location: Hanover, MD

PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, but I'm not buying that water got into your intake if it was just sitting there parked during a thunderstorm. Even if it had, your more likely to crack a piston than anything else...water doesn't compress as easily as air does Smile

I'm curious to see what those codes are...the key on/off trick doesn't work for 99 models?
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mycatsdied
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006

PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 10:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok guys I took it to autozone and they checked the codes ....

I had one error and that was the TPS .. so i bnought a new fps and went to instal it . wel the two screws holding it on were stripped which lead me to believe that there was something wrong in the past.

I have one other thought. When I went to take the wiring harness off it just slid right off. It wasnt latched in place? Is it possible that the problem could be the connection and not the Tps itself.

Also should shoudl I be putting any driving restrictions on it before this gets fixed. Whats the risk of driving it my fps not working.
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KnightFire
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Joined: 07 Jan 2004
Location: Hanover, MD

PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mycatsdied wrote:
ok guys I took it to autozone and they checked the codes ....

I had one error and that was the TPS .. so i bnought a new fps and went to instal it . wel the two screws holding it on were stripped which lead me to believe that there was something wrong in the past.

I have one other thought. When I went to take the wiring harness off it just slid right off. It wasnt latched in place? Is it possible that the problem could be the connection and not the Tps itself.

Also should shoudl I be putting any driving restrictions on it before this gets fixed. Whats the risk of driving it my fps not working.


What is an fps?

It's possible the problem the entire time has been your TPS. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes to replace it, then give her a test drive!
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mycatsdied
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006

PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just accdently hit the F instead of the T. I bought the TPS but as I sad the screws are stipped so I need to take it somewhere take off the whole throttle assembly and drill them out. Until then I have to drive it around without the TPS.
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KnightFire
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Joined: 07 Jan 2004
Location: Hanover, MD

PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will something like this work to remove those screws?

Craftsman 3 pc. Screw-Out™ Damaged Screw Remover Set
Sears item #00952154000 Mfr. model #52154
Removes damaged screws with any variable speed reversible drill or 1/4 in. hex driver. Works on Phillips, slotted, hex, Torx® or square recess heads.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00952154000
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TJ Apex
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Location: Mountains of SoCal. 6257 elev.

PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recently put in a new TPS. The two torx bolts had a type of "lock tight" on the threads witch made them very difficult to remove, I also F’ed up a new torx bit because of the lock tight.
The only symptom I had was a dead spot at a certain throttle pedal position.
I unplugged the TPS and it drove normal, but the gas mileage did suffer.
In fact, if the check engine light wasn’t on, I probably would’ve thought nothing was wrong.
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Welfare recipients should pass a drug test to get paid…

02' Apex Edition,
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mycatsdied
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006

PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2006 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well whatever was wrong with my jeep it apprently its happy now. I got in it a couple days ago and it ran fine. The check engine went off and there is absoluley no sign that anything was ever wrong.

Whatever was makin her unhappy seems to have gone the way of the dodo. Thanks for all your help guys. Needless to say I quite a stressful couple of days. I guess I just need to start to get used to my jeeps little temper tantrums.
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TJ Apex
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Joined: 29 Jul 2005
Location: Mountains of SoCal. 6257 elev.

PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2006 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A word of caution. If the problem happened once, it will happen again, problems of this nature don't just disappear.

You said before that the plug was loose when you went to change the TPS, I'd find out what’s going on with the plug.
There should be some type of retaining clasp on the outside of the plug to keep it from working loose from engine vibration.
The previous owner may have had a TPS go bad and replaced it and doing so broke the retaining tab on the plug causing it to work loose and show a TPS code. Also, the tabs as they get older become brittle and are easy to break.
If there is no tab, you might want to put a zip tie or something around the plug and the TPS to secure it.
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Why do I have to press one for English?!
Welfare recipients should pass a drug test to get paid…

02' Apex Edition,
2" BB, 31" BFG AT's
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KnightFire
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Joined: 07 Jan 2004
Location: Hanover, MD

PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2006 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TJ Apex wrote:
A word of caution. If the problem happened once, it will happen again, problems of this nature don't just disappear.

You said before that the plug was loose when you went to change the TPS, I'd find out what’s going on with the plug.
There should be some type of retaining clasp on the outside of the plug to keep it from working loose from engine vibration.
The previous owner may have had a TPS go bad and replaced it and doing so broke the retaining tab on the plug causing it to work loose and show a TPS code. Also, the tabs as they get older become brittle and are easy to break.
If there is no tab, you might want to put a zip tie or something around the plug and the TPS to secure it.


Completely agree.
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mycatsdied
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006

PostPosted: Sat Apr 29, 2006 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TJ Apex wrote:
A word of caution. If the problem happened once, it will happen again, problems of this nature don't just disappear.

You said before that the plug was loose when you went to change the TPS, I'd find out what’s going on with the plug.
There should be some type of retaining clasp on the outside of the plug to keep it from working loose from engine vibration.
The previous owner may have had a TPS go bad and replaced it and doing so broke the retaining tab on the plug causing it to work loose and show a TPS code. Also, the tabs as they get older become brittle and are easy to break.
If there is no tab, you might want to put a zip tie or something around the plug and the TPS to secure it.


You were exactly right. I took it wheelin for the first time last night and sure enough the check engine light came back on. I dont think its a problem with the tps I think it is the plug working itself loose. I am going to go buy a couple zip ties and lock it on there tight and then see if I continue to get the same problems.
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