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NON 4x4 '96 Cherokee has low range???


 
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DonM
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Joined: 10 Oct 2006

PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 9:09 am    Post subject: NON 4x4 '96 Cherokee has low range??? Reply with quote

Hello all, I'm new and I need help.

I'm Don, and my wife has a 1996 4x2 Jeep Cherokee that she LOVES. It has 105.000 miles on it, and it's needing some work.

I've already replaced the floors (that was two weeks of joy shock )
Now the ignition switch (for the second time) is acting up...can you say push button starter?

Anyhow, my current problem is that while I was working onthe ingition problem, I let her take the car out, forgetting that I still had one controller box unplugged...the one that's one the passenger side of the lower dash assembly. She got home more than a bit pissed pissed . Seems the Jeep had no 'giddyup.' I took it out and it was exactly like I had shifted it into low range...except how is that possible since this is a 4x2??

I plugged the module back in and it ran normally (back into high range I guess?), but the check engine light came on with code P1899 showing. The code won't erase/reset and I know she won't see the humor in me removing the bulb for the CEL, or putting tape over that part of the dash when I reassemble everything.

A second question also comes to mind. The Jeep is nice in the winter, but you have to admit, one wheel drive don't get it. I was wondering if I could use a switch or series of switches to give her the option of low range when things get really nasty?
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nixt
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Joined: 17 Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta/Athens, Georgia

PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Low range? Do you mean low gear? Does the cherokee have an overdrive on/off button or does it have an electronic overdrive controller? If the Jeep was just stuck in first gear or wouldn't go into overdrive that would make alittle more sense. If you don't have a transfer case, it would seem illogical that someone would add an underdrive box to a 2wd. It's not impossible, but an aftermarket gearbox added between the transmission and the driveshaft could give you the option of 2wd high and low. However, all of the ones that I've heard of (like the Klune-V) are manually or cable shifted and should have nothing to do with the stock electronics. If it is just the stock transmission controller you would get the same effect that you describe if you put the transmission in the "1" or "D" position instead of the normal overdrive position. It's highly unlikely that you could achieve a speed of greater than 20 MPH if you do actually have an aftermarket gear reduction box that was in low range. If you want more than one wheel drive (and don't want to go to the trouble of converting to a 4x4) you would want a limited slip or locker in the differential that will drive both of the rear wheels.
_________________
1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited W/242 swap
JKS disconnects & Garmin GPS
Heavy duty OME Suspension kit
with 2" coil spacers for 3.5-3.75 total lift
235/85R16 Goodyear MTR's Measure a true 32"

Life has No Value,
But Death Has Its Price.
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DonM
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Joined: 10 Oct 2006

PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 2:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not low gear, LOW RANGE. I know the difference and this was definately low range. This is an auto trans, with no manual OD override other than to put the shift lever in '3.'

Even if I were to put the selector lever in '1,' I could still rip the right rear tire with ease on pavement but while this was happening, I couldn't have spun it in gravel.
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nixt
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Joined: 17 Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta/Athens, Georgia

PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very well- you must have looked up the definition of the trouble code for the 1899 code that you mentioned; 1899 The Park/Neutral switch seems to be stuck. Do you think that you made the transmission go into "limp home" mode when you were messing with the electronics? If you don't have a transfer case or aftermarket gear reduction box I don't know how you would get the low range sensation that you are describing unless it is doing something with the transmission. If it is bringing up a trouble code when you do make it function this way it probably isn't a good thing unless you have the ability to reset the code after every time you do this. That being said, if you can rig up a switch that would make the transmission fuction this way and then reset itself when you take it out of this mode, then this would be the most cost effective way to achieve a low range effect. Otherwise if you don't mind getting a rear driveshaft and transfer case from a salvage yard you could find a 4x4 Cherokee of the same vintage and hook up the transfer case and rear driveshaft from it and just don't use a front driveshaft. This would give you the option of putting it in high or low range. If you were to do this, try to get the NV (or NP) 231 transfer case- avoid anything with a full time 4wd or low-Lock feature if you're not going to be running a front driveshaft. It won't hurt anything if you don't run a front driveshaft. You could also get an aftermarket underdrive like a Klune-V to get the low range but that would result in you having to get a custom length driveshaft. A better option for traction would be a limited slip or locker in your differential. But the most important thing to remember is that this is your wife's vehicle and the last thing that you want to do is piss her off by messing up her ride.
_________________
1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited W/242 swap
JKS disconnects & Garmin GPS
Heavy duty OME Suspension kit
with 2" coil spacers for 3.5-3.75 total lift
235/85R16 Goodyear MTR's Measure a true 32"

Life has No Value,
But Death Has Its Price.
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Code3TJ
Hacker
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Joined: 01 Jan 2004
Location: Uzbekistan

PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Do you think that you made the transmission go into "limp home" mode when you were messing with the electronics?

Exactly what I was thinking
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Renegadestang
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Joined: 07 May 2005
Location: Marietta, GA

PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nixt wrote:
Do you think that you made the transmission go into "limp home" mode when you were messing with the electronics?


I was thinking that same thing as well.
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1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport: 4.0L, AW4, 235/75 Wild Spirit's

1981 Jeep CJ-7 Renegade: 307-4V SBC, SR-4 4-spd., 31x10.5 Wild Spirit's

1966 Ford Mustang: 289-4V, C4 Auto.
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DonM
Member


Joined: 10 Oct 2006

PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nixt wrote:
Very well- you must have looked up the definition of the trouble code for the 1899 code that you mentioned; 1899 The Park/Neutral switch seems to be stuck. Do you think that you made the transmission go into "limp home" mode when you were messing with the electronics?


Trust me, I didn't do this on purpose, the wife would just attribute this to my "Tim the Tool Man" luck when it comes to working on things. Actually, I think I found out what I did. I got the electronics schematic for the transmission and saw the box (the Transmission Control Module) that was disconnected controls the valve body (S1 through S3) solenoids and has the 1 - 2 gear sensor. I think what happened is that even though the shifter was in "Drive," the trans was actually in 2nd or 3rd gear and what I was experiencing was a 'high gear start' like you get when starting a manual trans in 2nd or 3rd, or how some Fords still let you skip 1st gear and start in 2nd gear if you shift to '2' during slippery starts.

Too, I saw the P/N Position switch is separate from the TCM, so I think I might have left it disconnected, that's why the light won't reset. Embarassed

I won't have time to mess wth it until Tues or Weds though...work's been kicking my butt...and I still have to figure out why the front parking lights don't work (no, it's not the bulbs) AND why the turn signals stopped working AND why the key suddenly decided it wants to get stuck in the ignition 50% of the time AND wire in a hidden starter button kill switch that has to be pushed and held down while the starter button is being pushed before the car will start so the wife doesn't feel like she's: "Leaving the keys in the car for anyone to drive away" with the new set up.
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nixt
Member


Joined: 17 Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta/Athens, Georgia

PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On Board Diagnostics II(ODBII) was required by the government starting in the 1996 model year so when you start dealing with the electronics and something doesn't get hooked up properly there always seems to be an avalanche of other problems that come with it. Lots of these problems can, at first glance, seemingly have nothing to do with each other and thereby cover up the original problem with other symptoms. I had a problem with none of my rear lamps working on a previous vehicle(a chevy blazer) and things got so screwed up that when I finally took it to a dealer to have it fixed they wanted $900 to make the brake lights, turn signals, and the other rear lamps work again. That was too much money and the final straw for me so I sold the truck to a guy that parted it out. Moral of the story- Be careful messing with the electronics, write down the steps and procedures of what you are doing and what you are disconnecting, and label all of the connectors, wires, or plugs of the electronics that you are going to be dealing with during the repair process. Furthermore, I don't know if you have a diagnostic tool or code reader (I'm guessing that you do) but they are a good investment.
_________________
1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited W/242 swap
JKS disconnects & Garmin GPS
Heavy duty OME Suspension kit
with 2" coil spacers for 3.5-3.75 total lift
235/85R16 Goodyear MTR's Measure a true 32"

Life has No Value,
But Death Has Its Price.
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View user's profile Send private message
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