Forum Index
Jeep Horizons HomeLinksJeep Horizons Tech Write-upsJeep newsLand useContact

 Watched TopicsWatched Topics   FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 


Post new topic   Reply to topic     Forum Index -> Projects & Reviews
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message

Joined: 11 Oct 2006
Location: North Texas

PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 6:51 pm    Post subject: T&T Y-LINK INSTALL ON AN XJ Reply with quote


This is how I installed the T&T Y-Link kit. It is only the upgrade kit and does not include the rear kit. I already had mine lifted. I will be incorporating some the instructions that come with the kit in this write up but
please refer to your instructions when installing.
Everything comes bare metal but I powdercoated the pan.

I started by taking the nuts off the transmission mount to the crossmember. Jack the transmission up so there is no weight on the crossmember. Remove the crossmember.

I wanted to add the T&T Frame Stiffeners so I did so at this point as well as I added the T&T trackbar. My son (better welder than me) stitch welded up the frame stiffeners.
This was installed on an 88 XJ with the AW4 so there are small variations in the instillation which I will try to point out. MJs are almost the same and the instructions cover them also.
I removed my springs to make it easer to access the wheel wells. I used an engine hoist to raise the front of the XJs weight off the axle but left the axle sit with the tires on the floor.
Tap the forward nutsert in the Uni-body rail to M10 X 1.5 on both sides. This insert is drilled but not tapped. There are different instructions for the BA-10 transmission which I will not go into. If you have this the instructions shipped with your kit will cover this.
Remove the fuel and brake line plastic support clips, I tie-wrapped them up to get them out of the way.
I put the XD belly pan under the XJ and supported it with a small floor jack. My XJ had a stud on each side where the old crossmember was attached; some do not have this and only have threaded holes. Raise the pan up and put some bolts/nuts on both sides to hold up the pan. Leave it loose.

Slide the pan against the drivers side rail. Make sure it is butted up against it. Hand tighten the bolts to synch up the pan. There is a slotted support bracket on the transfer case part of the pan. It will be against the rail. Take a chalk stick and mark the inside of the rail thru the slots. Remove the bolts holding up the pan and lower it down.

Mark the center of the chalk marks. Using a strait edge and looking strait up at it I marked the centerline down, under, and up the other side of the rail, mark 4 from the one line to get your other mark on the outside of the rail. I then took a flat piece if metal and measured on the inside rail chalk marks down to the edge of the metal.

I then did the same measurements on the other side. This measurement will now be your drill point.

I used a step drill bit and drilled up to 13/16 holes. This is fine if you do not have the stiffeners but since I do and this thickness is more that the step bit, I had to ream out the hole to fit the crush sleeve thru.

Drill the inside on the center mark you made to . I was able to do this one but since I did not have a 90 degree drill I was unable to do the other ones this way. It would be easier if you have one.

Now go to the outside of the rail and look at the hole thru the 13/16 hole. Drill it out with a bit.

The instructions talk about an interior support inside the rail that you need to key-hole to . Mine did not have one so it was not needed but yours might.

The instruction tells you there are 4 nutserts but since I had the stiffeners welded on only 3 show up. You will see in the picture where I labeled where I think C is, it is not needed.
Label the nutserts from front to back A,B,C,D. B&D were the ones that held up the crossmember.

Mark the centerline of B and carry it to the outside of the rail and up to the pinch seam on the inside of the rail.

The instructions say to carry it on around the seam but I found it easier to mark the brace bracket and hold it up on the seam and line up the marks.

I then marked the inside rail in the bracket slots with chalk then a sharpie to mark there center.

If I would have had a 90 degree drill it would have been easy to drill the 1/4 hole the instructions call for but I did not so I just did a measurement like before and drilled the 13/16 hole then I used the hole and drilled all the way thru from the outside of the rail. Do the same thing for the opposite side of the XJ.
Install the brace brackets with the crush sleeves in them and the outer supports.

The two brackets have a notch and this needs to face forward of the XJ to install it on the correct side.
You will need to trim down the crush sleeves if you do not have the frame stiffeners.
Raise the pan until it is resting against the rail. If you do not have a stud then put a bolt in to line it up. Put all the bolts in finger tight.

The instructions say to tighten up all the bolts but I had to loosen them back up when installing the arms so just leave them loose for now.
You need to remove your control arms and brackets now. I removed the arms and I had dropdown brackets I removed also.

I put a piece of metal up to shield some of the heat and sparks from the cutting. This was the most nervous I got in the instillation.
I cut as close as I dared with the torch and used a grinder and cutoff wheel for the rest. I still have not removed enough yet but I will be trimming it down some more since my arms hit some that I have not removed. Be very careful around the drivers side since it has brake and fuel lines. I cut then let it cool then cut some more.

I did the opposite of the instructions and put the axle part of the lower arm in first. I found it was easer to move the arm in the pan by moving the tire back and fourth. I figured out where I wanted my axle and chocked the tire. I then set the arm and took a measurement with it where I wanted it between the jam nut and the tube. I then made the other one the same. I was able to add about 2 more inches to the wheelbase of my XJ but I do not know how this will affect it yet. I can always put it back. There are serts on the pan part of the lower arms. Make sure you put them on top or they will get broke off when wheeling. They are easy to access to grease.

Be careful of putting the washer and nut on the arm in the pan. It is easy to drop and it will roll down in the pan. I had to drop the pan again to get it out.

That is why I say to leave the bolts loose until the arms are on. You will need to remove the front driveshaft from the axle and just move it over out of your way to be able to install the other bolt on the drivers side. Install the upper arms.

Once you installed all the parts then tighten up the pan first. Be careful tightening up into the nutserts in the rail. I over tightened one bolt and it spun the sert. I still have plenty of other bolts holding it up but be careful.
Now tighten up the arms. The bolts should be able to spin on the mounts on the axle so do not over tighten them.
The instructions cover setting up your caster and pinion angels well so I will leave that part out.
I think I now need to limit my flex as I go all the way to the shocks now.

Written by Aaron Thomas (c130herc) with the help of the T&T Customs instructions.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message

Joined: 06 Nov 2005
Location: College Station, TX

PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 6:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice i really like that setup...
Good job on the write up too...
Where did you buy it from?
93 XJ, 4.5" RE AAL, 305/75/17 (34.5x12.0x17) BFG A/T KO's on 17x9 Pro Comp 1079's....
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message

Joined: 11 Oct 2006
Location: North Texas

PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I bought it direct from T&T. Very high quality stuff with great welds.
88 XJ - 35" tires, T&T LA, D44/F9 Other mods
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message

Joined: 04 May 2010

PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 8:55 am    Post subject: Question Reply with quote

do you still have your old control arm drop brackets and control arms? Are they adjustable control arms? Do you want to get rid of?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic     Forum Index -> Projects & Reviews All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Page 1 of 1

Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

Visit for write-ups, forums and clubs

Jeep®, Wrangler, Cherokee, Liberty and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler LLC. is not in any way associated with or endorsed by the Chrysler LLC.
All other content is copyright Jeep Horizons 2004-2008.
Tech write-ups Links Discussion board Land use News Site Map Terms of Use

Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group