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Piecing My Lift Kit Project.

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Tetsu Fury
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Joined: 04 Jul 2007

PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 6:42 pm    Post subject: Piecing My Lift Kit Project. Reply with quote

I've got a 2000 Jeep TJ Wrangler. 4 cyl. 5-speed manual. I'm peicing together a lift kit for it and think i've pretty much got it covered.

I want to run 33" x 10" on 15 x 10" beadlock's. 3.5" Rubicon Express Super -Flex Kit. OME 4" Heavy-Duty Shocks. 1" Motor Mount Lift. and possibly swapping the gears to 4:56.

I'm planning on running my Jeep until the wheels fall off, but it's my only DD for now. I need to keep it reasonable, but off-road ready. I figure I should take my time, peice it together, and do it right.


I've been trying to read everything under the sun about this stuff but I'm still pretty new to the site. Just wanted to see what other people thought of this set up.
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quadna71
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Joined: 02 Jan 2004
Location: Delaware

PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 4:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds like a good building road. just for kicks...have you considered 4.88 gears instead? a friend of mine has 4.88 gears, 5 speed, 4 cyl and is running 33.5"-34" tires - he says it is about perfect.

also, the 10" wide wheels may be a little wide for 10" wide tires. i think that you'll see some pretty abnormal wear on the treads from pulling the beads that far out. often people are running 7" wide wheels with a 10.5" wide tire....or maybe an 8" wide wheel. again, just my thoughts. the 3.5 SF lift w/OME shocks won't dissapoint you.

the beadlocks may have you frustrated if it's a daily driver too - they tend to be more difficult to balance well for highway speeds. but if you stick to your current wheel/tire combo then you may need beadlocks since you'll slip the bead as soon as you air down.

lastly, why the motormount lift? it's common when also installing a body lift or helping alleviate small driveline vibes, but with the 3.5 SF you may find that an SYE/CV driveshaft may work better.

sorry, i know it's easy to spend another person's money...but you asked Smile
chris (wide tire + narrow wheel = better bead-holding abilities)
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Tetsu Fury
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Joined: 04 Jul 2007

PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

welllllllllllll...


haha, first off, thanks for the positive feedback. BUT.

I read on here somewhere that a guy had a 4.5" SF lift and recommended the 3.5" SF w/ OME shocks. To avoid the cost of a SYE/DS combo, he suggested a motor mount lift kit as well as a transfer case lowering kit. I'm on a budget here and with the sky being the limit, I gotta keep the price reasonable haha. I actually wanted to run a 15 x 8 rim, but i'm getting a good deal on 15 x 10 bead locks. I'll just get a wider tire or a narrower rim I suppose.

As far as the gearing goes. I actually have no clue what I'm doing or talking about. haha. I'm still pretty new to all of this, but I plan on crawling under the jeep and taking a look at the ratio. Then decideing from there. I actually read about the 4.56 gears on here somewhere. So.

Any other feedback??
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blktrax
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Joined: 01 May 2007

PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My build in progress:

97 TJ 4cyl 5-Speed

1 in Motor Lift - JKS budget $50 - Recycling new replacement mounts
1 in Body Lift - DayStar $146 -Installed 2 on other jeeps work great
3 in Lift - Full Tracion $449 - Installed on 02 shara, wored very well, only kit for this price that comes with front adjustable trackbar that i've found
4 Shocks - Skyjacker nitros for 3 in Lift $130
1 Steering stabilizer - $50
3/4" coil spacers - $35 For Front to copensate for weight of winch.
F/R Aussie/PowerTrax Lockers - $270

Then:
4.88's
33x12.50/15's
15x10's

Relitvely Current Prices from Quadratec.com and Northridge4x4.com

P.S. Motor lifts help drive line angles, Body lifts help articulation clearances, for $200 bucks its hard to beat the combination. Total lift about 4.75" unloaded, 4.25" with winch gear and spare, not including tire size. Overall going from stock 30" to 33" tires should yeild just shy of 6in total lift loaded.
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Tetsu Fury
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Joined: 04 Jul 2007

PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2007 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"3/4" coil spacers - $35 For Front to copensate for weight of winch. "


Explain this. I'm not sure I fully understand what this part is. I probably should know though since I'm sure in the near future a winch is going to be pulling my ass out of some mud haha!
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blktrax
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Joined: 01 May 2007

PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2007 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What it is: Look at your front springs, at the top of the spring there is a 1/4' rubber spacer, called a coil isolator. This keeps the spring for making contact with other metal parts reducing noise. The 3/4' Urathane (harder than rubber) spacer goes between that rubber isolator and the frame it rests on now. Total higth 1" combined. They make a 2 in spacer, but I only use those with factory springs (witch i have installed now), lift kit springs are much stiffer and do not need that much spacer, and would cause the front end to be high, hence the 3/4 is enough to level the jeep with added weight on the front.


Get a tape measure and measure from the pavement to the bottom of the front bumper. Then sit (or a friend) on the front bumper and measure the same place.

Assumeing you weigh 150+ LBS, A winch with wire rope or synthetic can weigh form 90 to 140 lbs then add the winch plate, and possibly and aftermarket bumper.

I weigh 220 and my front end drops a full inch with my weight.

The 3/4 in spacers compensate for the added weight, lift kits assume for the most likely set up not every setup. Then this keeps the jeep form having that nose down look like it does form the factory, witch also reduces wheel clearance/articulation.

My goal is max articulation, without using a long arm kit, and maintaining drivability.
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greenbean
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Joined: 20 Aug 2004
Location: Virginia Beach, VA

PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2007 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know what your budget is exactly but if you can do a RE 4.5SF with SYE/Driveshaft it will perfom much better...It is a more complete kit, and yes I have installed one on a TJ. Unless you are doing wider than 12.5 tires I would not use a 10 inch wide rim. Again motor mount lift is okay if you do a body lift but not needed otherwise, I perfer the JKS 1.25" body lift but most of them are good and they are simple to install. I would defintely do some more research before you decide anything and not just take my advice or somebody you know, gather as many "Opinions" as possible and then firgure out what will be best for you. Also, remember the K.I.S.S. principle,(Keep it simple stupid!) The more technical things get with the vehicle the more expense you will incur along with breakage, repairs so forth and so on....Big, sexy long arm lifts are way cool and you can run bigger tires and tackle tougher trails but it can also cost thousands of dollars in the end to do it right,...I guess thats what I'm getting at is whatever you do, do it the right way and you will be happy. Anyway this is just my 2 cents and others may give you totally different advice, do the research and then go for it!!!

Will
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2006 Rubicon, FT 6" Long Arm, Swayloc DR swaybar, CV rear Driveshaft, JKS 1.25" Body, 1" motor mount lift, ARB Dif covers,...etc.
Toyota 4Runner Sport/X-REAS suspension, 4.7l V8
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blktrax
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Joined: 01 May 2007

PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2007 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I aggree with greenbean, theres no right way to do anything to a jeep.

Its finding what you want your jeep to do , and finding the parts that make it do that.

I like what greenbean said "K.I.S.S." Thats why my route is staying with the factory short arms. If I bend or break one, they're easy to find. A long arm kit you need to be versed in welding, or wait or rig replacements. Trail repairs get a little tricky the more "special parts you have.

Pretty and expensive doesn't always mean reliable and functional.
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Tetsu Fury
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Joined: 04 Jul 2007

PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks to everyone for giving opinions. It helps alot since this is my first Jeep and I really don't know much about off-roading. But I enjoy working on cars so this stuff is really interesting.

There's been a minor set back though. My front transfer case is leaking right where the drive shaft meets the slip-yoke. I was crawling around under there this weekend and noticed the leak so I popped the cap off and checked the fluid levels. COMPLETELY EMPTY. Embarassed I re-filled both transfer cases with Lucas heavy duty and i'm taking it to the shop this week. It should be an easy fix, just a little hard getting everything back together right. Also, the sway bar link couple has wore out and sheered off. It's not the biggest deal since I just noticed it and it hasn't been effecting the 7 hour drive back and forth from Pennsylvania to Virginia, so I think I may hold off on it until I can get my kit.

As far as the kit goes. Yes, I am on a tight budget. I still have two years of college to go so budget's about as tight as it gets. I've been looking at everything under the sun for this stuff. I started off wanting a 2" Rusty's Off-Road kit. It looked pretty complete and reasonable. I thought though that I'd probably want to upgrade the shocks and for the price, I could just get a more complete 3" kit. Then after making a comparison between all 3" kit's I decided on the Rubicon Express Super-Flex kit. It seemed the most complete and best bang for the buck. The only thing that's stopping me now is I still don't know how much I'll need for books this semester. So I pretty much still have until August to peice this together and find exactly what I want and need.

All opinions are useful and greatly appreciated!!!
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Code3TJ
Hacker
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Joined: 01 Jan 2004
Location: Uzbekistan

PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tetsu Fury wrote:
There's been a minor set back though. My front transfer case is leaking right where the drive shaft meets the slip-yoke. I was crawling around under there this weekend and noticed the leak so I popped the cap off and checked the fluid levels. COMPLETELY EMPTY. Embarassed I re-filled both transfer cases with Lucas heavy duty and i'm taking it to the shop this week. It should be an easy fix, just a little hard getting everything back together right.

Your transfer case or your axle? If your jeep is stock, it should only have one t-case and running it dry will kill it very quickly. If you have a seal that's leaking that much, replace it before you do anything else.
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Tetsu Fury
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Joined: 04 Jul 2007

PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Slip-Yoke seal on the back side of the Transfer case where the drive shaft meets the Slip-Yoke.

It's sitting in my drive way waiting for monday to be taken to the shop. Shouldn't be too bad of a fix though so I should get it back this weekend.

Just curious: What's the general opinion on Rusty's Off-Road Lift Kits? I checked out the 2" kit and I would just run 32" but still on a 15 X 8 rim. But when I checked prices for shocks and then got into checking out 3" kits because of the price.
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silvergoat
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Joined: 08 Jul 2007
Location: wyoming

PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might want to contact the guys at TNT customs or check out there web site. They have great lift kits that handle great on the road and even better off road. I have there short arm kit and it flexs great.
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Tetsu Fury
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Joined: 04 Jul 2007

PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for movin this. Makes better sense!
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Tetsu Fury
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Joined: 04 Jul 2007

PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2007 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How are Old Man Emu lift kits?

I've been mulling it over and I think that a 2" - 2.5" lift is probably best for the budget. Cheaper on tires, parts, etc. etc. But I know I could end up spending the same amount in the long run if i'm not careful.
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kizer
The Link Meister
The Link Meister


Joined: 02 Jan 2004
Location: Marysville, North of Seattle

PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2007 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there any particular reason you want to run 15x10 rims? I would recommend 15x8s to make sure you dont loose your tire off your rim.
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