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AC not working.


 
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silvertoy
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Joined: 05 Sep 2007
Location: N.E. PA

PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 6:43 pm    Post subject: AC not working. Reply with quote

I just bought a used 1999 Wrangler Sport and the AC isn't working (wasn't when I bought it either) and I've been trying to troubleshoot the problem.

When I switch it over to the AC side of the dial, nothing happens, I don't hear a click from the AC clutch engaging or anything, but it does seems like the engine lags just a little bit for a split second when I switch the dial from right to left, but it might just be my imagination.

When I switch the temperature dial over to the red, it get's plenty warm, but when I switch it to cold, it doesn't get any cooler than outside temperature.

The odd part is, that I had it running for about a minute the other day and when I went to drive away, I had a little puddle on the ground and it appeared to be water, so I am thinking that something is working, but the cold air just isn't making it inside.

The first thing I did was go to the store and get a recharge kit and brought it up to propper pressure by plugging it into the black cap on the right hand side and the guage showed that it wasn't that low, but I topped it off. That didn't work.

The next thing I did was take it to the dealer and they wanted $160 just to diagnose it with a dye kit, which since it hasn't lost any pressure, doesn't make much sense to me, but they won't do anything else before they run the dye test. Any tips? Are there any jumpers I can cross on the AC parts themselves to turn things on so that I can troubleshoot each individual component? I still haven't checked the fuses, that will be the first thing I do when I get back home tonight as I've read here that's a popular fix, but if there's any other tips before I make my way home, I would love to hear them. I'm reading through the Jeep Wrangler service manual I got from E-bay and it's giving me some ideas, but I have no idea what it's talking about 1/2 the time.
Thanks for any suggestions.
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blktrax
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Joined: 01 May 2007

PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pop the hood and swicher on, The Clutch Plate whole outter disc in front of the belt should be spinning with the pully. If it is, then the compressor is working and the problem is the refridgerant.

If it's not and the clutch plate is stationary and the pully is spinning, the clutch is not engaging 1) blew fuse 2) refriderant problem 3)A/C presure switch disconnected or bad 4) wires/wireing to a/c clutch bad or broken 5) too much materal worn off a/c clutch disc.

Mine was broken cause of the metal tabs that hold the disc on, I ended up buying a clutch assembly(also includeds the wires) to repair mine.

If the system is holding pressure my bet is either on the compressor clutch, or the dash selector switch.
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silvertoy
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Joined: 05 Sep 2007
Location: N.E. PA

PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, I checked all of the fuses, they're fine. I let it get warmed up and I cranked up the AC noticed that the clutch is cycling rapidly. The clutch kicks on for a second then off for 6, then on for a second, then off for 6, and so on. I don't know how long it's been doing it, but it can't be good for the clutch. The relay is kicking on and off as well, which leads me to believe it was the relay, I took some wire and made a jumper to the closed position, and presto, the clutch engaged and it stayed on. So, thinking it was the relay, I went and replaced the relay with a $11 version from AA auto, but... It still did the same thing. The guy at AA remembered that there were 2 other switches in the system as well, one that was right on the clutch and one that's on the canister on the firewall (the accumulator?), I believe it's the low pressure cycling clutch switch. So I thought that the switch could be what's doing it. So I took both switches and I jumped the wires in the connector, first the one on the clutch, no effect, then the one on the accumulator and lo and behold, the clutch kicked on and stayed on, not only that, but the air inside the jeep started to blow colder. Not willing to take any chances, I only left it jumped for a little under a minute. So, could it be that just the switch has gone bad. Or is there a deeper darker possible cause? According to the manual, "Rapid compressor cycling (ten or more per minute) is symptom of low refridgerant charge" The odd thing is that I just charged the system when I got it, and it wasn't even that low according to the gauge on the container I bought. So I am still leary.

I bought the low pressure clycing clutch switch from AA auto, it's $15 and supposedly, it's a schraeder style valve underneath it, so I can take it off myself without having to depressurize the whole system. So when it gets in, I'm going to install it and hope that works.

Anyone have any thoughts as to what else could possibly be wrong that I'm ignoring here? Is this all in vain, am I replacing parts that aren't the real root cause of the problem. I only left the switch jumped for about a minute, could there be bigger repercussions if I left it jumped for say, 5-10 minutes to see if the system truly starts to run colder.
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silvertoy
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Joined: 05 Sep 2007
Location: N.E. PA

PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL, I'm answering my own posts here,
UPDATE:

I tried adding refrigerant again, and bought myself a new set of gauges which showed that I really needed to add some. I put in the rest of the 18 oz can that I had in, and it really hadn't increased that much in pressure (it was still reading green to add more). So I went out and bought 2 more 18 oz cans and dumped them both in as well, it still could use some more as it is still in the blue, safe to add zone on the gauge. I bought the refridgerant that's supposed to be for leaky, old systems because I figured it obviously has lost a lot, so there must be a leak.

Well the compressor now kicks on for about 10 seconds, then kicks off for ten, then on for ten, does this sound about normal or do you think I could probably still stand to add some more? It is blowing pretty cold, granted, it's not that hot outside.... I'll probably go get another can or two ($24 for a 2 pack of 18oz at BJ's) and put another in and save the other for just in case.

I guess I'll cancel that part I ordered at AA auto.
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blktrax
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Joined: 01 May 2007

PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 4:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

it's not just about how much is int he system, its how much moistre and other contaminats have gotten in there.

When AC systems are serviced, thye pull a vaccuum on the system and "evacuate" it. Then recharge it with the proper amount of freon.


Yes the clutch is supposed to cycle, but, just cause the guage you have says its in the green doesnt mean its the right pressure for that system its not a one size fits all situation. I dont have my jeep with me at the moment, but i think it was something like 1.56 lbs of freon. But if you had a leak and the system equalized , you most likely will not get the required amount in there without overpressurizing the system. Then ruining the compressor and seals in it.
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silvertoy
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Joined: 05 Sep 2007
Location: N.E. PA

PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WOW! Well I just went to a local shop and had them drain out all of my refridgerant. They charged me $35, but oh well, I couldn't do it by myself so what can you do. I then went and bought another can of refridgerant and not even halfway through the can, the compressor kicks on AND stays on. I put in 22oz and it now is working great, it's blowing cold and the compressor stays on most of the time and only kicks off when it gets super cold. But long story short, I must have had a LOT of contaminants in there. To anyone with a similar problem on a high mileage vehicle I would highly recommend draining what's in there, out first.
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