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anybody good with carbs?


 
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DozerDan
What the deuce?
What the deuce?


Joined: 03 Jan 2004
Location: Where im at

PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2004 11:20 am    Post subject: anybody good with carbs? Reply with quote

So the carter's been acting up. It was running way rich, so i played witht he two screws in the front, this seemed to get it to not run as rich but it still wasnt right. So yesterday I fixed all my vaccum leaks,got rid of lots of extra vaccumm lines and did the nutter bypass. The jeep has tons more power under acceleration now,but the top end is not there at all. It bogs down once i hit 3rd gear and try to run above 2500 rpm's


I search forever last night but cant find any info on tuning this pos. Upgrades are in the future but for now i need to get it drivable.

When i turn the front screw closest to the drivers side, nothing happens, i can take it out or all the way in and no effect on the engines running. The other one (pass side) if i take it in it starts to stall, if i open it up it seems to pick up. Is there a way to get these set to a correct possition?

Also when i come from a high rev down to idle it tries to stall, it hasnt done this in a long time but is annoying as all hell. Idle is set at about 850-900

Any one have any ideas on setting this thing so it runs 1/2 decent

specs = 90YJ with 258 (new long block with 30k on it, rebuilt carb ~30 k ago also

Dan
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YellowX
Member


Joined: 06 Jan 2004
Location: Weare, NH

PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 5:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have a vacuum gauge? Would make it easier if you did. Can also be done using a tach, or digital timing light that has an rpm readout.

Anyway, this can be done with a tool or by ear. More "exact" with the tool but, can get close enough by ear.

First start with the Jeep off. Turn both screws all the way in, but NOT NOT NOT tight!!! Don't screw it down like you are tightening it in, just barely seated. If you tighten it too tight, it will damage the seat. Then turn each screw 1.5 turns out. Turn the Jeep on and allow to come up to normal operating temperature.
Then start with one screw and turn s-l-o-w-l-y out until you encounter one of the following depending on how you are monitoring:
If by ear, listen for the highest RPM. If by vacuum gauge, by highest reading. If by timing gun, then look for highest RPM.
Once you have found that point, then turn the screw 1/2 turn in (clockwise).
Do the same with the other screw. Take for a drive and see what you think.
Gimme a holler if you need more detail, or help.
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kygreenyj
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Joined: 06 Jan 2004
Location: Clovistan, NM

PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

try here www.atkins.com
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kizer
The Link Meister
The Link Meister


Joined: 02 Jan 2004
Location: Marysville, North of Seattle

PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive got a few sites on my site talking about carbs. Give it a looksee.

http://www.links4jeeps.com/1
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DozerDan
What the deuce?
What the deuce?


Joined: 03 Jan 2004
Location: Where im at

PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks guys.

Last night i played with the screws some more, the pass side one is 3.5-4 turns out and hte drivers side one still had no effect what so ever.

Ill try what you said.

I guess i am also gonna clean out the idle tubes bc at idle the gas does not flow in, rather it drips
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gavan
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Joined: 19 Jan 2004
Location: Here

PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2004 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Throw the BBD far, far away. There are only so many things you can do with it. Getting your Jeep to run well is not one of them.

I rebuilt mine several times and did every trick in the book (drilled out the idle tubes, cleaned the jets, Nutter bypass, TFI injection, MSD) and I still could never get it to run well. They all helped, but it would never idle well below 1,000 and it would hiccup at will.... and die at will too.

I have put 3 webers on sience then, one was mine, and 2 others, and have been very happy with the results. 32/26 for mileage and 38 for power.

I have seen the motorcraft conversions, but they seem hard to keep in tune. It is a big carb for the little 258, and they really need to be jetted down to make the 258 run well. But for 30 bucks, it might be worth a shot.

Seriously, the BBD is a piece of junk and not worth the time or effort to make it run. A friend of mine even had a brand new rebuild... it lasted 3 months before it was back to its old tricks.
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scramblejim
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Joined: 19 Jan 2004

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2004 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Weve all got BBD woes brother. As far as the idle mixture screw not doing anything, LOTS AND LOTS OF 2+2. Carb cleaner. Take the screw all the way out, clean it, clean the bore it came out of, and any other nook and cranny you can get that little red straw near. Like Gavan said, its usually only temporary at best, but dont put too much effort into "polishing a turd".
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