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Orangeamc13
Got Rev Limiter?
Got Rev Limiter?


Joined: 20 Feb 2006
Location: East Springfield, Massachusetts - U.S.A.

PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

quadna71 wrote:
you're kidding, right?


No, I'm not kidding. And for the record, any removable pin type disco will make some noise. Just wondering Quadna, have you removed your rear swaybar or used those homemade disco's? I only ask because sometimes people down something and they haven't tried it. If you have than that's good negative feedback. Mr. Green Mr. Green

Hey, Apex if you need a referral for another Dr., see my secretary and she'll set you up with a list. rofl

Make sure you share your pics, I'm always interested in new fab ideas!!! thumbs

BTW Nice JEEP Quadna, is the other one yours too?

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quadna71
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Joined: 02 Jan 2004
Location: Delaware

PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i haven't removed my rear anti-swaybar per say...but i have removed the links connecting it to the frame and drove it like that. it was tippy, but manageable as long as you were expecting it when you came into a turn. but add in an unexpected swerve or veer from someone cutting you off or a deer jumping into the road and you'd be sticky side up in no time. and yes, i started out with the same front anti-swaybar discos as you mentioned. they were a cheap fix for more articulation...but were also noisy as hell. i'd be willing to bet that the pin with the multiple holes in it wasn't rated strong enough to handle the forces of a tj in a hard turn...especially since they would snap from time to time. you can usually find someone with a set of RE of JKS discos that they are pulling off one of the many forums at any given time.
chris

p.s. the blue tj belongs to my wife Smile
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hustler
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Joined: 20 Jan 2007
Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, so I'm working on getting the little bits together - so far I found 7/16" stainless bolts that I will have to cut to length throw into the drill press to accept the lynch pins I found (the lynch pin will go through the non-threaded part and the threaded bit will be cut off). They should be strong enough - I would think that stainless is stronger than the stock bolt material, and less likely to rust than zinc plated.

I also got some nylon washers - has anyone tried these to keep the noise down?
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Code3TJ
Hacker
Hacker


Joined: 01 Jan 2004
Location: Uzbekistan

PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

quadna71 wrote:
it was tippy, but manageable as long as you were expecting it when you came into a turn. but add in an unexpected swerve or veer from someone cutting you off or a deer jumping into the road and you'd be sticky side up in no time.

X2 - if it's a trailer queen, great, otherwise you're screwed the first time somebody pulls out in front of you.
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Orangeamc13
Got Rev Limiter?
Got Rev Limiter?


Joined: 20 Feb 2006
Location: East Springfield, Massachusetts - U.S.A.

PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hustler, that set up sounds good. The nylons washers should work great, make sure you drill the hole so it all sits tight as possible. I've replaced my bushings with polyurethane and they are a lot stiffer than the stock rubber bushings.
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TJ Apex
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Joined: 29 Jul 2005
Location: Mountains of SoCal. 6257 elev.

PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since I'll be making my own, I did some measuring on the bolt diameter, lengths, etc. I found the the trox bolt is metric making the 7/16 pin to small, by almost 1/32 (or .031) witch may not sound like much, but factoring in both sides of the sway bar and the amount of movement when the axle moves thru it's verticaly travel and you may get as much as an 1/8 inch or possibly more sloppy movement.

hustler wrote:
OK, so I'm working on getting the little bits together - so far I found 7/16" stainless bolts that I will have to cut to length throw into the drill press to accept the lynch pins I found (the lynch pin will go through the non-threaded part and the threaded bit will be cut off). They should be strong enough - I would think that stainless is stronger than the stock bolt material, and less likely to rust than zinc plated.

I also got some nylon washers - has anyone tried these to keep the noise down?



BTW, I know your looking at SS for rust resistance, but stainless would be to soft for the stresses being put on by the chassis.
I'd use a grade 8 bolt if you were going to go that route.
I will be using 4130 steel and heat treat, or maybe titainum just for the exotic WOW factor.
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2002 Wrangler Apex
Why do I have to press one for English?!
Welfare recipients should pass a drug test to get paid…

02' Apex Edition,
2" BB, 31" BFG AT's
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quadna71
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Joined: 02 Jan 2004
Location: Delaware

PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TJ Apex wrote:
...I will be using 4130 steel and heat treat, or maybe titainum just for the exotic WOW factor....


once you start factoring in the time and cost involved thus far you may find that you could get a decent set of discos for near the same price. it's function specific - i would think that piece of mind alone would sway you that way???
chris
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hustler
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Joined: 20 Jan 2007
Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

quadna71 wrote:
TJ Apex wrote:
...I will be using 4130 steel and heat treat, or maybe titainum just for the exotic WOW factor....


once you start factoring in the time and cost involved thus far you may find that you could get a decent set of discos for near the same price. it's function specific - i would think that piece of mind alone would sway you that way???
chris


I think i might stick with Grade 8 then, all things considered. What size did you come up with for the Torx bolt TJ Apex? I think its metric, but I dont have it out yet to say for sure.
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TJ Apex
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Joined: 29 Jul 2005
Location: Mountains of SoCal. 6257 elev.

PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I measured .468 dia. witch is just under 12mm by only a couple of thousands of an inch.

7/16 is .437, so theres .031 differance or 1/32,
Me being a machinist, that's a mile.
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2002 Wrangler Apex
Why do I have to press one for English?!
Welfare recipients should pass a drug test to get paid…

02' Apex Edition,
2" BB, 31" BFG AT's
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ehirner
Moderator
Moderator


Joined: 01 Jan 2004
Location: Eastern PA

PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

quadna71 wrote:
Orangeamc13 wrote:
While you at it, if you haven't already, remove your rear sway bar and toss it.

you're kidding, right?

I tried making my case. If one will listen to the advice of someone telling them to remove parts that increase the handling and predictability of a vehicle on road, I don't think they'll really care much for us telling them the opposite.

You'll notice the guy recommending removal of the rear swaybar on a Wrangler has 3 vehicles with rear leaf springs and only one with rear coils and a 5-link suspension. Unfortunatley, it's a longer wheelbase which will make the vehicle inherently more stable without swaybars than a SWB Wrangler.

You really need to keep the rear swaybar on. It's there for a reason and does not hinder useable flex. The quest for ultimate flex has been shown to be a waste. Controlled articulation and a balanced rig with a low center of gravity is the best way to build a rig for most situations we'll run into offroad and still be a very streetable rig when it hauls us off to work and school each day.
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hustler
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Joined: 20 Jan 2007
Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After seeing the swaybar controversy I tried taking the rear off, and went around the block. Shortly after returning home it was promptly replaced (I froze my sack off doing it). It might have been slightly better off road, but I feel like it might kill me on-road. I have a pretty long commute to work, and dont want to swerve to avoid an accident and roll right over.

The front homemade quick disconnects are still going to go through. If they make a lot of noise I would probably just buy ready made ones, but after doing all the work of sourcing hardware i feel like i should make it work.
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hustler
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Joined: 20 Jan 2007
Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TJ Apex wrote:
I measured .468 dia. witch is just under 12mm by only a couple of thousands of an inch.

7/16 is .437, so theres .031 differance or 1/32,
Me being a machinist, that's a mile.


If I'm looking for bolts to modify what do you recommend then? Hey - heres an idea - how about the stock ones drilled to accept a lynch pin rather than a nut? Is that just asking for certain destruction?


BTW, thanks everyone for the help. I feel like it helps to get some different viewpoints about what works.
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TJ Apex
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Joined: 29 Jul 2005
Location: Mountains of SoCal. 6257 elev.

PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought of using the stock bolt too. It would work, I'd just make sure that when you drill for the pin that it's tight aginst the washer so it doesn't move much.
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2002 Wrangler Apex
Why do I have to press one for English?!
Welfare recipients should pass a drug test to get paid…

02' Apex Edition,
2" BB, 31" BFG AT's
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hustler
Member


Joined: 20 Jan 2007
Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, after trying out various combinations of clevis pins, washers, and bolts with holes drilled in them, and whatever else I could find, I gave up and ordered some JKS stuff, should be here soon. Fortunately I held back from destroying the stock bolts, so for the time being, I'm pretty much right back where I started.

I have also ordered a Rubicon Express 2" BB kit. I have heard from some people that I need to do something with my trackbar. How essential is that?
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Orangeamc13
Got Rev Limiter?
Got Rev Limiter?


Joined: 20 Feb 2006
Location: East Springfield, Massachusetts - U.S.A.

PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

From my experience it's a must for the rear, but the front will be fine. That's with 2" spacers.
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