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Just got myself a used wrangler, what to fix first?

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silvertoy
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Joined: 05 Sep 2007
Location: N.E. PA

PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tip! Next time I do the brakes I will definitely do the rear cylinders now that I know what they are. I put everything back together, bled the brakes (went through a lot of very dark brake fluid) and what a difference. It's better than my 2003 was when I got rid of it. I feel much better now that I've done all the brakes. Next steps for me will be:

-New steering stabilizer shock.

-New Shocks all around (Rancho 9000 because I like having my shocks be adjustable, or the rubicon express kit because I've heard good reviews)

-2" body lift kit.

Anyone here know about replacing Timing Chains, should that be on my to do list? Are there any other biggies that I should be looking at?
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blktrax
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Joined: 01 May 2007

PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a rancho steering stabilizer, 50-60 bucks at advance auto parts or summitracing.com

Don't do a 2" in body lift if you have a manual transmision and want to keep your a/c. Too many things you have to change to make it all work plus the body gaps look fugly.

Get 2" Coil spacers for 60 bucks-ish = real lift about 1-1/2 bonus you can continure to use your stock shocks till youre ready to buy new ones.

Get a daystar 1" body lift. true 1 inch lift that replaces all the hardware, not just stacked on the old factory rubber.

JKS 1" budget motor mount lift. keeps all the wires tubes and such where they should be with out streching anyhting.

I've done this on now my thrid jeep and it works great. Kept the factory air, didnt have to worry about he fan and fan shroud, the gear shifter is not too short or needing and extender, and has no problems with body interfearance, and didn't have to extend the fuel tank filler neck tube.
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silvertoy
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Joined: 05 Sep 2007
Location: N.E. PA

PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the input, I will do some research into the parts you talked about and see what I can find. I didnt' realize that the body lift had so many negative effects. I can see now what you're talking about with the shifter though, that obviously would be annoying.
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Orangeamc13
Got Rev Limiter?
Got Rev Limiter?


Joined: 20 Feb 2006
Location: East Springfield, Massachusetts - U.S.A.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only only negative affect of the body lift would be the gap, and that's not bad at all, especially if you are only going 2"!!! All the body lifts I've done had nothing to do with the a/c? It doesn't take a genius to extend the gas filler tube, come on! The body lift kits come with everything you'd need to do the job (radiator drop down brackets, manual tranny stick extension, filler tube extension,etc.) and everything is bolt on. Any wires that need to be moved or extended are thoroughly gone over in the detailed instructions. It's good to keep the factory rubber under the lift, without them there would be a lot of vibration transfered from the frame though the poly to the body! I say go with the 2", or you'll always say "I should have just went the extra inch!" I personally like the 3", but that's just me! Cool
Also check out these coil spacers, the measure 2 1/4", all others only measure 1 3/4"! TrueTwo Spacers
They also sell the spacers with rear bumbstop extensions, which you'll definitely need with the coil spacers! TrueTwo with Bumpstops
You'll also need to address the rear trackbar with a spacer lift (relocation bracket or adjustable bar).

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blktrax
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Joined: 01 May 2007

PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 each their own Orangeamc13

I'm just stating whats worked and worked well for me, if youve seen silvertoys other posts he's just getting into all this, some may be a bit overwhelming than others.

I'd go with a 3" as well if I was looking for maximum off road clearance. But mines a Daily Driver and a weekend thrasher, so i compromised and went with what I think looks good and works as well.

Not undermining anyones opinions, just stating mine.
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Orangeamc13
Got Rev Limiter?
Got Rev Limiter?


Joined: 20 Feb 2006
Location: East Springfield, Massachusetts - U.S.A.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

blktrax wrote:
2 each their own Orangeamc13.

Not undermining anyones opinions, just stating mine.


To each his own is right!! But if you read your last post, it doesn't sound very suggestive. More like, do it this way, it's the only right way!!! I must have misinterpreted it. Cool

blktrax wrote:
But after compressing the Phenollic (see crap) pistons in the caliper they usually don't operate like they should, and for the $30 or less each, you can pick capalers up from advance or autozone it's silly not to do them.]


I've been doing brake jobs since before I was able to drive and have never replaced a capaler just for the hell of it! Does that make me silly? I actually still have the same calipers on my CJ as the day I got it, 12 years ago, they still work great. My ZJ is a 94 with original calipers, stops on a dime! I generally don't fix something if it isn't broken.
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blktrax
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Joined: 01 May 2007

PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now the first part I concede could be imsinterpreted. But again, how I feel, not the collective. People can and do and will make their own decisions.

However the brake thing I take very seriously. Im not attacking passing judgement or anyhting about any ones ability.

My Jeep after using the brakes 3 or 4 times , the passenger side caliper after applying the brakes hard, locked up and snached me in into he ditch.

The how and why is the fact that the phenollic piston over time and heat cycles expanded and locked in the caliper and very nearly caused the end of my Jeep.

So the do it yourselfer that has less experience than others need to be aware of what can happen if everything isn't examined.

I aggree again, if it aint broke dont fix it. But be aware when you make changes that the unexpected can happen. Baised off of others experiences and opinions.
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silvertoy
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Joined: 05 Sep 2007
Location: N.E. PA

PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now, now, don't fight over me, lol. Seriously, I appreciate all of your input. In all honesty, the body lift is proably an easier putt for me, but I want to do it right the first time too and after the universal joints, there's not a whole lot more that can seem much worse honestly. This vehicle will serve 1 purpose. Fun. But it'll do it 2 ways, it'll drive me around topless when the weather is nice and the other way is I'm going to be taking it to Rausch Creek Offroad Park a few times a year (aka about 10X a year) I'll probably only be doing greens and blues since I'm no pro and I'm really just out there for the fun of it, besides I still don't even have any lockers. After I beat the snot out of the bottom of my first jeep and even the FJ to some extent, I've come to appreciate ground clearance, which I hope to obtain with some 31" tires, but I've also come to appreciate body armor, which will be my next step after I get this car in 100% running condition. Just to get this thing ready to run better on the highway even, I need to get this supsension replaced. Now I would love to just replace the shocks, but I don't want to do something twice.

http://www.dpgoffroad.com/TJ_LJ_OME_Kits.htm

I was thinking this kit, or at least components similar to it, what do you all think?
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silvertoy
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Joined: 05 Sep 2007
Location: N.E. PA

PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, I did a lot of reading on the subject (perused a lot of forums, asked a lot of experts, and here's the conclusion I came to) For my needs, I'm going to stick with the D30/D35 setup I have for now, until it dies basically. I'll be running 31x10.5x15 tires, so hopefully the D35 lives for a little while.

I'm going to be putting on an OME 2" lift kit, (springs, shocks, some spacers). I decided to do this because I figure that I was going to be spending $300 on shocks and another $150 on Springs, then $100 on spacers, I can get the OME 2" suspension lift for another $100 or so and have the additional travel. So I will not be doing a body lift. But I need to save up funds for a couple of months before I jump off to that project and I have fears that other components will be rearing their ugle heads before that. Mainly a clutch that doesn't like to go into gear (bad synchros?), an engine that does a LOT of tapping (but doesn't smoke) and has trouble starting pretty much every time (fuel pump?) and an AC that doesn't work at all (who knows).
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blktrax
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Joined: 01 May 2007

PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to jeep ownership, either you love to be dirty, or you'll sell it.

and all those *quirks* you listed make your jeep more unique and 22" spinners and an underglow kit ever could.


Just have to zaz it up a bit like:

Total rear end annihilation

Drive Shaft Pretzelation

Lets all meet at the U-joint cause I got no idea how this goes back together.
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silvertoy
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Joined: 05 Sep 2007
Location: N.E. PA

PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know these questions have been asked a million times, but I'm starting to second guess myself with the choice of going with the OME 2" lift. Main reason being that I'll probably be adding a goodly chunk of weight with some body armor/bumpers/etc... I don't want to have to do the suspension more than once, I want to do it right the first time. Remember, I don't plan to run anything larger than 31" tires, and I will be putting in a rear locker (probably an ECTED kit with a super 35 in the rear) and ECTED up front as well, likely will make a switch to 4.11 and 4.10 gears respectively. Again, as time and $$$ allows.

I'm torn between

http://www.ok4wd.com/index.php/catalog/product/old_man_emu_jeep_wrangler_tj_suspension/

and

http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/1633

What disadvantages are there with the 3.5" vs. the 2"? Do I need to re-do the brake lines, are there many items that need to be relocated with the RE kit? Will I run an increase risk of breaking endlinks? etc? I see it comes with some endlinks.
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blktrax
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Joined: 01 May 2007

PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might I Suggest

http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddetail.php?prod=FTS-7503

622 with hydro shocks
677 with nitro shocks

FREE SHIPPING

A guy in my wheeling group has this and 33's with no body lift. I think it worked well, and I have yet to see another kit under 700 with an adjustable trackbar. Buy one seprately and youre spending about $100 additional.

Nither the RE kit or the Emu come with sway bar disconnects either.


From what I've seen and experienced Full Traction lifts are about the most complete for the more budget / in one box oriented.

You can bump up to the 4 in kit that comes with lower control arms and rear track bar, only part about that kit I'm unsure of is the drop pitman arm. But going beyond 3in, you start to really need a Slip Yoke Elimator (SYE) on the transfer case and a longer rear driveshaft, a t-case drop will only do so much.
Summation - over 3 in starts to get very pricey, things like driveline vibration, and alignment issues start cropping up. Not to say they wont with 3in but more previlant.
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silvertoy
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Joined: 05 Sep 2007
Location: N.E. PA

PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay just to let you all know what I went with finally regarding suspension and tires.

31x10.5x15 Pro-Comp Xtreme M/T tires all around.
OME 2" Shocks with HD OME Springs.
Rancho Front Stabilizer.
MML, instead of TC drop.

I just got it all installed this week with the exception of the MML (didn't come in yet from daystar, along with the rear bumps stop) and so far it's great. The ride is much improved over stock althought it's a little bit sloppy in my opinion, but it is a lift (even though it's only 2") so what can I expect. It's much smoother riding the factory suspension expecially over big bumps. And after about 10 mins of some very mild wheeling right by my house, I can say it's much nicer riding off road to than before. The tires (which I had on for 2 weeks before putting the susp on) are great, they aren't much noisier than the soft dry rotted H/T tires that were one there before, although they definitely don't display much in the way of braking grip, I guess that is to be expected as well.

The only thing left to deal with is what I've discovered to be a exhaust manifold leak that I'm going to have to deal with before inspection time in May. Sigh. As well as some serious noise in my AM/FM radio, which I've opened another post on.
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