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Replacing Dana 30 Axle seal tips

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Joined: 21 Nov 2007
Location: Western Massachusetts

PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 11:26 pm    Post subject: Replacing Dana 30 Axle seal tips Reply with quote

Hi all! Here's a few tips on replacing the front axle seals from my experience rebuilding the front Dana model 30 on my ZJ last weekend with the hopes of making someones life a bit easier!

After reading several posts about the difficulty and special over priced tools needed when replacing the front axle seals on a Dana 30 I decided to improvise using what I had laying around in the garage.

The 1-3/8" socket that was used to remove the hub nuts fit the axle seals perfectly, just snug enough to hold it in place while lining it up to drive it in.

I'll assume that you have already jacked up your Jeep safely on jack stands, tires, brakes, rotors and hubs removed, (to remove hubs use a 12 point, 1/2" socket & breaker bar on the 3 bolts behind the steering knuckles and they can be a bear to break loose!)

After removing the differential carrier (mark bearing cap location for re-installation), remove the old seals using a pry bar, clean recess of seal bore and inside of axle housing.

Slide the wooden rod through the opposite side of the axle housing until the seal is aligned with it's bore. Once you are sure it's lined up straight, a couple of solid hits with a hammer will drive the seal in, you can feel and hear when it's bottomed out.

(NOTE: the socket looks crooked in the picture but will go in straight if your dowel ends are square.)

Next repeat the procedure on the drivers side being very careful not to cut or damage new seal you just installed. The passenger side required the use of a 8" 1/2" drive extension as the wooden dowel wasn't long enough. Depending on the length of dowel used this may not be necessary.

Reassemble everything following torque specs and fill with your favorite gear lube beverage.

Replacing the actual seals took about 15 minutes only because I stopped to take a few pictures. The axle disassembly is time consuming and you should consider combining other maintenance or repairs while you have the differential apart.

For slightly more than 20 bucks and a bunch of labor there's no excuse to have a drippy rear end!

Stuff I used:
Normal hand & air tools
Axle seals (my choice was Partsamerica P/N 710068)
Wooden Dowel - 1-1/4" dia X 3' (approximate)
1-3/8" 1/2" drive socket (same as axle nuts)
BFH (Hammer)

Note: This is not meant to replace following the manufacturers repair manual instructions

1997 Char Gold Limited ZJ
4.0 Full Time 249 (Yuk)
My $1200 Dollar Special!
More Pictures @

***edited on 10/15/2009 by thephantum to fix image links***
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Pissed-Off Admin

Joined: 23 Jan 2004
Location: I knew it...I'm surrounded by Assholes!

PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice writeup.

Moved it to Projects & Reviews. Wink

97 XJ Sport with a bunch of stuff
Never argue with idiots, they drag you down to their level and beat you with experience
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