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Here's how to keep your overhead console / VIC from dimming


 
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ZJ_Ras
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Joined: 19 Apr 2008
Location: San Diego

PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 11:19 pm    Post subject: Here's how to keep your overhead console / VIC from dimming Reply with quote

Because I have gotten so much help from this site, I wanted to share a quick how-to on my latest little project - How to keep your overhead console from dimming when you turn on your headlights or running lights.

I am in the habit of driving with my headlights on on the road for visibility and I hate it that when I turn them on my overhead display (MPG, trip odometer, temp, compass) dims so I can't read it during the daytime.

Here's what I did:

This is on a 1995 ZJ 5.2L Limited (Orvis)

Take out the one screw near the windshield end and pull the rest of the console down. It is held by two clips toward the rear of the vehicle.

There is a rectangular connector with a bunch of wires. One side of the connector has a full row of wires, the other side has a set of three wires on the left side, a gap in the middle and two wires on the right side.



The second one from the right is the one you want to snip. Mine was blue with a red stripe. (See Photo) You can see the white heat shrink tubing I used too.


I put a sliver of electrical tape over mine and topped it with a bit of heat shrink tubing. I was going to just yank it out of the connector, but figured this way I can always splice it back together if I ever had to.

Before cutting you might want to take a voltage meter to it to double check. Here's what I did:

I unplugged that big rectangular connector and turned on my headlights then tested each wire looking for any that were about 12V. When I found one that was 12V, I would turn off the lights to see if it went away. There are two wires that had 12V with the lights on but no voltage with the lights off, but only one does the trick.

This is what I did with the ground probe for my volt meter to free up a hand:


I'm going to try to do the same for my VIC screen next. I'll post the how-to if I get it.

Please let me know if this was helpful to you.
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Jon

'95 ZJ Orvis Edition 5.2L V8 with 210K+ miles Featuring a 2" Budget Boost with Skyjacker Hydro Shocks, 242 T-case swap, JKS Quicker Disconnects, 30x9.5s, cold air intake, throttle body spacer, 136A alternator and a DIY roof rack spare carrier.


Last edited by ZJ_Ras on Thu Jul 31, 2008 9:24 pm; edited 1 time in total
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swamp boy
Cherokee Muderator
Cherokee Muderator


Joined: 01 Jan 2004
Location: New Orleans LA.

PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 5:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice.. Keep it up...
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Unless you include the sawzall work..

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zjtherightway
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Joined: 21 Jul 2008
Location: Mesa, Arizona

PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 3:12 pm    Post subject: blue wire Reply with quote

Just curiosity, Your headlights will be on with your auto function on your headlight switch...is it that you want your tail lights on all the time also?
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ZJ_Ras
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Joined: 19 Apr 2008
Location: San Diego

PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 7:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the Auto function, the headlights/taillights only come on when it's dark.

I just spent 8 years in western Washington state where the weather is routinely gray for weeks at a time in the winter. Having your lights (front and rear) on so others can see you is just good habit there.

Now, it's just the way I drive, even though it's not as big of a deal here in San Diego.
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Jon

'95 ZJ Orvis Edition 5.2L V8 with 210K+ miles Featuring a 2" Budget Boost with Skyjacker Hydro Shocks, 242 T-case swap, JKS Quicker Disconnects, 30x9.5s, cold air intake, throttle body spacer, 136A alternator and a DIY roof rack spare carrier.
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zjtherightway
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Joined: 21 Jul 2008
Location: Mesa, Arizona

PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 7:06 pm    Post subject: ok Reply with quote

Gotcha. Thats what I figured.
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ZJ_Ras
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Joined: 19 Apr 2008
Location: San Diego

PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 9:41 pm    Post subject: And now the VIC Reply with quote

I took some time today and got the VIC rigged the same way now. This is especially nice since I can now see what time it is and what mode my T-case is in since I swapped it out and haven't found a new bezel yet.

This one was easy - same color wire as the overhead (blue with a red stripe) so I only had to test that one, snip and cover with heat shrink.

There are two wiring harnesses that plug into the back of the VIC. The wire you want is in the corner of the larger connector toward the center.

Here's a photo:

_________________
Jon

'95 ZJ Orvis Edition 5.2L V8 with 210K+ miles Featuring a 2" Budget Boost with Skyjacker Hydro Shocks, 242 T-case swap, JKS Quicker Disconnects, 30x9.5s, cold air intake, throttle body spacer, 136A alternator and a DIY roof rack spare carrier.
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