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Help me lift my ZJ (read already)

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ChorE
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Joined: 26 Apr 2005

PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 1:24 pm    Post subject: Help me lift my ZJ (read already) Reply with quote

Ok. I'm in Mexico and is kinda expensive to pay shipping from the US to Mexico. So my options are not much. however I found a dealer that carry some decent stuff.

What I already have are upcountry susp. pkg. + 2" alluminium pucks, and JKS Quickers Disconnects, I run 245/75R16 BigHorns, but I need more ground clearance because I made a heavy bumper with a winch, and I lost some height on front.

So my options are. Rough Country 4" suspension Kit.

F>R with Rubicon Express 3.5" coils, JKS Adjustable Front Trackbar, 4 shocks, Extended rear sway bar links, rear trackbar bracket.

And maybe will add 1" puck just to level out the jeep.

I guess the adjustables arms that came with the Rough country are a nice plus. what i don't like is the front trackbar bracket. So I don't want to throw my money in something that will fail in a short period of time or i'm wrong? .

That's why, i'm thinking on buying quality stuff and start with the F>R so later can add adjustables or go long arms.

So my doubts are how it will handle or it's safe to run the F>R (maybe with 1" puck) on stock arms.

What you should recommend me to do. ?

If the best route for me is the F>R i'm missing something?

PS: We are talking about a ZJ'98 V8 TC249.

Thanks.
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swamp boy
Cherokee Muderator
Cherokee Muderator


Joined: 01 Jan 2004
Location: New Orleans LA.

PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

F>R will work.. Track bar relocation bracket is not usually a weak point..
But make sure you use grade 8 hardware..

If you can afford it go for the lift with the adjustable arms... That way you can tune out any vibes you get ..(If you get any..)
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Unless you include the sawzall work..

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ChorE
Member


Joined: 26 Apr 2005

PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

swamp boy wrote:
F>R will work.. Track bar relocation bracket is not usually a weak point..
But make sure you use grade 8 hardware..

If you can afford it go for the lift with the adjustable arms... That way you can tune out any vibes you get ..(If you get any..)


Thank you very much, I can afford the Rough Country lift kit. but I don't know about how it's in quality. Maybe doing an effort I can get also the front adjustable trackbar made by rough country also.

What would you suggest me? Even if it's the Rough country kit, is better than do the F>R with RE Coils, and JKS Trackbar ?
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1fox2go
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Joined: 01 Dec 2004
Location: Fishersville, Virginia

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 4:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rough Country isnt bad, but the RE springs are suppper flexxxxy.

I agree with swampy try for the adjustable arms

Maybe the front to rear swap would save you money for the adjustables?

Careful with the adjustable track bar from Rough Country, not that its bad its just it uses the stock bracket on the unibody, any kind of hard wheeling and that bracket will egg where the tie rod end goes. I would recommend a drop bracket like Kevins or Rubicon expresss uses
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96 Cherokee 7.5 inch TnT long arm Locked F/R, D44 rear, 4.56s, 35x12.50 Muds/36x12.50 TSLs
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ChorE
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Joined: 26 Apr 2005

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the comments, I place my order last night, and is the complete RC KIT + the RC Track bar. Hope I don't have any problems. I don't wheel to hard just 1 or 2 times a month.


Another question which is the bigger tire the V8 D44AL/D30 (3.73) can handle with out regearing and putting alot of stress on the axles?
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fuzzy59
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Joined: 19 Nov 2007
Location: Richmond, Va

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you changing out your 245's for another tire?
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ChorE
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Joined: 26 Apr 2005

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fuzzy59 wrote:
Are you changing out your 245's for another tire?


Maybe. If they look to funny on the 4" lift I will need to change them, but don't know if it can handle 285/75 (33") or even the 265/75 (32") will put a lot of work on the axles.

For sure the 245/75 work like a champ under here. !
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fuzzy59
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Joined: 19 Nov 2007
Location: Richmond, Va

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 10:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have the 35c or the 44hd? What year is your grand btw?
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1fox2go
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Joined: 01 Dec 2004
Location: Fishersville, Virginia

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ChorE wrote:
Thanks for the comments, I place my order last night, and is the complete RC KIT + the RC Track bar. Hope I don't have any problems. I don't wheel to hard just 1 or 2 times a month.


Another question which is the bigger tire the V8 D44AL/D30 (3.73) can handle with out regearing and putting alot of stress on the axles?


Do you read fuzzy? The D44AL will be fine on 33s locked, but 4 inches you will need to trim some

265s and you will rub a shade, I recommend aftermarket wheels
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96 Cherokee 7.5 inch TnT long arm Locked F/R, D44 rear, 4.56s, 35x12.50 Muds/36x12.50 TSLs
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ChorE
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Joined: 26 Apr 2005

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a 98 I have also the 2 inches pucks (1 inch ea) that I can use.

the 265 or even 285 Where they will rub ? on the control arms at full lock ? or where you think?
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1fox2go
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Joined: 01 Dec 2004
Location: Fishersville, Virginia

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

stock wheels 265s rub the control arms, 285s the front bumper fascia. At full flex, (sway bars disconnected) the 265s stuff inside the front fender barely clearing, this is on stock wheels and also my experience

If you look at your fenders the built in flare "flares out" then goes straight down, I would recommend you cut the straight down part off, leaving the flare out. This should do fine with 285s and 4 inches, of course the front bumper needs trimming

4 inches and the 2 inch pucks would be pushing it for a Slip yoke eliminator
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96 Cherokee 7.5 inch TnT long arm Locked F/R, D44 rear, 4.56s, 35x12.50 Muds/36x12.50 TSLs
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ChorE
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Joined: 26 Apr 2005

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1fox2go wrote:
stock wheels 265s rub the control arms, 285s the front bumper fascia. At full flex, (sway bars disconnected) the 265s stuff inside the front fender barely clearing, this is on stock wheels and also my experience

If you look at your fenders the built in flare "flares out" then goes straight down, I would recommend you cut the straight down part off, leaving the flare out. This should do fine with 285s and 4 inches, of course the front bumper needs trimming

4 inches and the 2 inch pucks would be pushing it for a Slip yoke eliminator


Cool, thank you very much. I don't have stock front bumper, I made one.

Could you be so kind and show me a picture on what are you talking about on the flares? I don't mind trimming the fenders.

SYE ? on a 249 are you serious?

BTW: Let me show you my rig.



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1fox2go
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Joined: 01 Dec 2004
Location: Fishersville, Virginia

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh dear, mod one should have been removing the 249 and replacing it with a 231



kinda hard to see but does that help with your flare question?
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96 Cherokee 7.5 inch TnT long arm Locked F/R, D44 rear, 4.56s, 35x12.50 Muds/36x12.50 TSLs
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ChorE
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Joined: 26 Apr 2005

PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 3:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was going to drop a 242, but time wasn't on my side so I keep the 249 and bealive me or not. I love it driving the 249, in the city, wet or dry !!

Jeez I never thought removing that part of my fenders. !! I will do it as soon I get my sawsaw back Very Happy
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1fox2go
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Joined: 01 Dec 2004
Location: Fishersville, Virginia

PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

231 is a bit better, 241 from a rubi would be sweet, 4:1 low

for time tho try to get a 231, once you burn up the VC in that 249 its gonna suck
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