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need input on making an 03 better.

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ThePhantum
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Joined: 23 Jan 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2004 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just saw this...Dirk is selling the 4" OME coils now. Clicky and scroll about halfway down the page..

chachy wrote:
how is the articulation?


Articulation you ask? These are better shots than I have of ours...


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chachy
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Joined: 22 Sep 2004
Location: Southern New England for now!

PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2004 3:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you can get the OME super ultimate system and it is the same components as any other 4" lift, but with the better ride? Also would you need a SYE with the 4"?
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'drack
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Joined: 01 Jan 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2004 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yah, at 4" you should be going the SYE route. I ran a tcase drop with my old 3" setup until I tore up the output shaft of the tcase. I was really surprised with how little contact there was holding the driveshaft in place at that point. It was really barely just hanging on there. No experience with the OME coils, but I swear by their shocks. Running them with my 4" Tera coils and love them. Pricey, but well worth it.
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WhatWasIThinkin
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Joined: 02 Jan 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2004 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

chachy wrote:
So you can get the OME super ultimate system and it is the same components as any other 4" lift, but with the better ride? Also would you need a SYE with the 4"?


OME has thier stuff together and it is about the best ride you can find with a Jeep. OME which is an Australian company decided that since the Australian government only allows a maximum vehicle lift to be the metric equivilent of 2-1/2" that they would make the ride quality with that small lift as good as possible to withstand the Australian wilderness and still be affordable.

So yes, the basic components in the OME kit are the same as a RE or TC or whatever lift. The biggest difference are the shocks. OME shocks are what realy make thier system work. Many of us have been the Rancho or Pro Comp route and hated the ride. Short wheelbase vehicles like our Jeeps require different valving and oil viscosities than say full size vehicles do. Most of the big name US brands make there shocks brutally stiff for Jeeps. An absoluetly horrible road ride is what you end up with. The only other brands I like are Bilstein and Edelbrock, but at twice the price of the OME. Are they 2x better? Not by my standards.

In any other TJ other than the Rubicon where they are standard, yes you will most likely need a SYE. Everyone will tell you that every Jeep can act differently with the same mods done. You may get away without one, maybe you will get lucky, but the drive shaft could fall out at full flex and disco'd. My Rube is at the max and so far no problems with vibes, but If I go any taller I would need one myself. I also use a 1" MML and that helps correct my driveline angles. With out it Im sure I would have issues.

Your best bet is plan to spend the money on it before you drop any on a lift. Install the lift and see what it needs.
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Jasper
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Joined: 21 May 2004
Location: Albuquerque, NM

PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't care for the Rancho lifts. OME has worked well, I know a lot of guys that are happy with the Rubicon Express 3.5 Super Flex, I have the 4.5 and so far so good. Some of the engine performance stuff is snake oil, in my never humble opinion. The 4.0L in stock form should be plenty of power for your application, sand might have you wanting more HP but how much sand do you do? Atlas II? If you are only thinking about 33" tires the NP231 is fine for all terrain. I installed the Tera Low 4:1 kit with 2wd low and SYE and saved a 1k (running 5:13's and 35's).
For the front axle I would prefer the ARB air locker over the elec trac. And possibly for the rear too. If you invest the money in the compressor you can power both. The lockers are comparable in price.
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chachy
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Joined: 22 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 3:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Phanton,
Are those pictures of articulation the 2.5 or the new 4"?
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chachy
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Joined: 22 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 3:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

what kind of RTI scores does that lift get (in the pictures)?
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chachy
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Joined: 22 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would I need to get a SYE for the Deluxe 2.5" kit? I have heard people say that it is necessary for a 4", not too sure about the 2.5
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Keithtj
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

not for 2.5", the rule of thumb, I believe is some 3.5" and mostly 4" or more.
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WhatWasIThinkin
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Joined: 02 Jan 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 28, 2004 3:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keithtj wrote:
not for 2.5", the rule of thumb, I believe is some 3.5" and mostly 4" or more.


I agree. you should be okay with the 2.5". You may want to figure a motor mount lift and body lift into the scheme of things.

The MML lifts the front of the engine while the tailshaft on the tranny stays put. This helps to correct the driveline angle of the driveshaft that the lift puts some pitch on. This makes for less u-joint binding. The straighter you can get it, the better it works.

A 1" body lift kinda goes hand in hand with the MML. A BL takes less than hour to install and you wont have to modify the fan shroud or mess with the shift linkages(usually). It also gives another inch of body clearance. With the 2.5" OME lift and 1" BL you can easily run 33" tires w/4 or 4.25" offset wheels.
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chachy
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Joined: 22 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 10:11 am    Post subject: Thank You Reply with quote

Thanks for all the input, I have decided to go with the OME Ultimate TJ kit, and 33" tires. Probably won't happen until after christmas, but when it does, I will post the pictures!
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Tierhog
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need Body armor..... off your rocker brand rocker and corners...ditch the rear lights for LED's...and get those skids bolted on. Ditch the rear output shaft off the t-case for a SYE. Get a heavy duty rear DS. That should keep you busy. Very Happy
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ehirner
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 4:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't recommend the OYR corners and I doubt I'd agree with the rockers either, however, I'll admit I never researched them.

The corners are 1/8" and you have to cut the holes for LEDs and drill most of the holes yourself. For $150, you can get the Toys by Troy or the Poison Spyder Customs corners. On both, the LEDs holes are precut and the mounting holes are pre-drilled. The OYR's start at $220 and you can pay extra to have the LEDs precut.

AEV makes the best engineered rockers but they're expensive with a pricetag of somewhere around $370 last time I checked. Some other, less expensive body-mounted options that'll work just as well are the Shrockworks and A to Z Fab.

For frame-mounted rocker protection, I think the best, hands down, are the Jeeperman Rock Skidz or Trail Skidz. I run these myself on the 99 TJ and will be adding a pair for the Unlimited shortly. They bolt around the frame, so no holes to drill. I've come down on mine extremely hard multiple times and the skids haven't moved. They do decrease your clearance some, but I've never found it to be a problem as I'm usually caught on my belly pan prior to getting stuck on the skids. With the flat skid I have plans to do, this might change. I would get them without the powdecoat b/c once it starts chipping, it's a PITA to keep from getting worse. If you get them bare steel and paint them yourself, it'll be much easier to touch up the scrapes and chips.
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chachy
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Joined: 22 Sep 2004
Location: Southern New England for now!

PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 3:17 am    Post subject: What are the rockers? Reply with quote

Are the rockers the pieces that go on under the doors that the Rubicon and Rocky Mt. ed. come with? I think I have the undercarriage protected some. The sport came with the gas tank and t case plates. Should I get one for the steering box, and/ or what else under there?
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Keithtj
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 5:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is that piece of metal that covers the side underneath the door. Yeah it's like a rocker, but doesn't work the same. I believe it's called a rocker panel. What we are talking about is similar to a nerf bar, but it's closer to the body and usually not round. You would remove your side steps and this would take it's place. It wouldn't stick out as far as your factory steps.
They look like this;

Yes you do need at steering gear box, it is a very expesnive part to replace if needed and for around $40 you can protect it. Contact Jason at Red Rocks someone will have his web addy. Order the Kilby one. I have teraflex and I like, but that was because I forgot to get the Kilby instead.

As far as the stock skid plates on the your jeep. It's not as good as you think. The gas tank skid is worthless, but it will work untill you can afford the upgrade. the t-case skid plate will work also untill you can get another one. You might want to check out the engine skid plates. I know people are happy with Kilby for that one too.
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