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cluncking noise


 
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charlie
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Joined: 05 Nov 2005

PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2005 6:40 am    Post subject: cluncking noise Reply with quote

put 3 inch lift on 96 ZJ,since changing lower control arms, have clunckingnoises in front when hitting even small bumps, could this be the shocks?(procomp mx6) would a softer shock (edelbrock or bilstein) solve this? had vec. 5 years , this would make the 4th set ive bought. the cluncking stops when first installed, starts again anywhere from 3- 1 year later. mech. cant find anything else wrong. can anyone guess how to stop it permenetly? thanks
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1fox2go
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Joined: 01 Dec 2004
Location: Fishersville, Virginia

PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2005 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

make sure you shocks are tight and did you get a track bar relocation bracket?
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96 Cherokee 7.5 inch TnT long arm Locked F/R, D44 rear, 4.56s, 35x12.50 Muds/36x12.50 TSLs
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swamp boy
Cherokee Muderator
Cherokee Muderator


Joined: 01 Jan 2004
Location: New Orleans LA.

PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2005 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

control arms will clunk if they arent very tight.. Check that out...


Get a magic marker and make a mark accros the nut and the washer and control arm and drive around ..See if it is moved...
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Unless you include the sawzall work..

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charlie
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Joined: 05 Nov 2005

PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

shocks are tight, gonna get newones . maybe doetch or ome or edelbrock,control arms are also tight (rubicon express)
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charlie
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Joined: 05 Nov 2005

PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok retightened ca bolts, noticed that the adjustment washers on axle are not the same on both sides. passenger side clunck almost all gone, (livable) but drivers side still makes noise ( not as bad as before) are (BOTH) adj. washers (bolts need to be set the same? thanks for all the help guys this is my first time posts.
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swamp boy
Cherokee Muderator
Cherokee Muderator


Joined: 01 Jan 2004
Location: New Orleans LA.

PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had to take some flat bar from Lowes and make my own cam bolts for the control arms...

To push the axle as far forward as possible... Anyway.. They dont need to be the same but if they arent you might get a little motion in the axle and cause a clunk....

OK... Just having a little fun...

But it really could be the cause of the problem..[/i]
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Unless you include the sawzall work..

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charlie
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Joined: 05 Nov 2005

PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2005 6:47 am    Post subject: ok Reply with quote

thanks for the help
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charlie
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Joined: 05 Nov 2005

PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2005 4:48 am    Post subject: alignment Reply with quote

the alignment shop set the so as to make the drivers side control arm a good 1/4- 1/2 inch shorter than pass. side, i aassume this was to stop a pull to the right, it also makes drivers side control arm sit that much lower than other side(raising dr. sideup that much . they said it was to level vec. does any one know if this is right?
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swamp boy
Cherokee Muderator
Cherokee Muderator


Joined: 01 Jan 2004
Location: New Orleans LA.

PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2005 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They told you they intentionally put one control arm shorter than the other????


Thats not how you do an alignment...

I think you might need a different shop... Mr. Green

Alignment should be done with the steering drag link not the control arms..

THEY ARE ALL FIRED.......................

If your rig is leaning to one side that is most likely a worn shock or spring ..

If its pulling to one side the steering needs to be adjusted..

Not the control arms.. What they are doing is esentially shortening your wheelbase on one side.. That is absolutly not the right thing to do...

It will also change your caster causing one tire to wear faster and more wear on your unit bearing...

Straighten every thing back out ..(Control arms.. ) Then measure your wheelbase center to center on each side ...See if they are the same..

Once you have that right.. Measure the front of your front tires inside to inside..

Then measure the back of your tires from the same point (as close to the middle as possible)

Then loosen the nuts on the adjuster sleeve on the drag link and turn it til the two measurements are almost the same... (you want your front to be about 1/4" or so closer than the rear.like this.../....\ not that much but you get the point...

That should give you a pretty good track down the road and solve your alignment issues..

Then like I said get those cam washers in the right position so they actually hold the axle solid and problem solved...

Hope that helps..


Carl
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Unless you include the sawzall work..

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charlie
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Joined: 05 Nov 2005

PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2005 11:05 am    Post subject: BOLTS Reply with quote

took a GOOD look today. noticed cam bolts had different settings. found the dr. side (the one making noise) was 1/4 shorter than pass side. luckly theyre ajustable. made 1 whole turn ( now both equal length) reinstalled cam bolt at same setting as pass. side, & yea, PROBLEM SOLVED. it trac just fine, no pulling either way, sits level, no noise! thanks for all the help, its a good thing theryre guy like you.!
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