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Just so you know, you might want to check it out....


 
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Scuba Wino
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Joined: 31 Jan 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA

PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 8:56 am    Post subject: Just so you know, you might want to check it out.... Reply with quote

Good morning,

Give me a sec but I need to vent, and it might help you in the future:

At 105,000 miles I encountered the first problem with my '98 Sahara since I bought it new in '97. The plastic top part of the radiator started leaking...no biggie right? So i let it go for a month or so until my belts srarted squeeling every time I started it up. Took to the dealer and presto...fixed.

Problem 2: 127,000 miles...Check engine light comes on. Okay, now after the first time of letting it go and the ass chewing I received from the wife...time to go to the Jeep dealer.
Problem: #1 valve burned...need valvle job...done. ($1300.00)

Problem 3: 31,000 miles after the firrst vavle job, CHECK engine light comes back on, I also notice what sounds like a small exhaust leak. Well, the smog is due so I decide it might be time for a new exhaust system. I take it to a different dealer (this time in Sacramento, not Woodland) and tell them to replace the entire exhaust system. Manifold to muffler. They tell me that only the Cat converter and manifold need replaceing (manifold had HUGE crack in it). That happens and I tell them to smog it.

OMG, they call me back and tell me that it won't smog and the reason....ready?...READY?....the #1 vavle is burned...yeah, i know..the same one that cost me a vavle job 31,000 miles ago right?

Well, what can I do? I tell them to go ahead and give me the SECOND vavle job in 31,000 miles and smog the darned thing.

NOW THE FUN PART:

They call me and tell me that it is ready to go. I make my way down there and pick it up. Figure I'll drive it to pick up the wife from work. Man it sounds nice...no loud exhaust, quiet as a mouse. I pick up the wife and we are heading home, admiring the sound of the "New" exhaust....AND WAMMO....."CHECK ENGINE LIGHT"....NO F'ING WAY. I JUST PICKED IT UP 11 MILES AGO. New exhaust, new vavle job...WTF. 11 miles...11.

I take it IMMEDIATELY back to the dealer and they put the little code reader on it and guess what.....

The throttle body switch is bad, yep. Turns out, that this year throttle body switch was made WITHOUT the moisture "O"-ring. WHAT...they proceed to explain to me that this little switch could cause ALL of the problems that I encountered. It would have caused the valves to burn, the exhuast maniufold to go...everything.

$90.00 later.... I am on the road.

CONCLUSION: Spend the $90.00 and replace the switch. It takes about a minute and a half and is EASILY reachable on the top of the motor. It may save you a lot of headache in the future. It only cost me $4000.00 dollars to figure that out....

Just thought I say that, I needed to vent.

Thanks for listening.
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Eggs4Lunch
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Joined: 20 Aug 2005

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks much for the info. This sort of a story really helps the rest of us to avoid problems and is one of the best parts of boards like this.

Eggs
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Lowrider
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Joined: 08 Nov 2005
Location: Washington State

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exactly how did this switch malfunction burn your valves and crack your exhaust manifold?
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2006 Wrangler Unlimited
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Get Bent
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Joined: 01 Nov 2005

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All TJ owners should consider both the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) to be maintenance items. They will eventually wear out, and in both cases should throw codes.

If you get a check engine light, go ahead and go to your local Auto Zone (or whatever over-the-counter auto parts store you have in your area) and have them plug your Jeep in to an ODB-II code reader; 99.9% of the time, they'll do this for free.

Write down the code and check it against the "TJ Error Code Table", easily found on the 'Net, like this one:
http://www.dirtroadmagazine.com/codes.htm

A '11' code is the CPS, and a '24' code is the TPS.

You can buy the parts online, or directly from the dealer, and probably install them yourself in your driveway with basic hand tools, an hour or so, and a cold beverage or your choice.

2 Cool
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Scuba Wino
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Joined: 31 Jan 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lowrider wrote:
Exactly how did this switch malfunction burn your valves and crack your exhaust manifold?


According to the service manager at the dealership...

The TBS (as I guess it is called) was made without the o-ring to keep moisture out (it was made that way in the past and Jeep has gone back to doing it). Moisture got into it (could have been from the radiator leaking) and malfunctioned. Causing the computer to run the engine a little richer (or leaner, I forget) and that caused the cat converter to go, which caused the exaust manifold to go and so on, and so on, and so on....

tha is all I know (I sell wine, not fix cars....LOL)

So, I just thought I'd let you know about it. It was a simple fix that could have sved me a ton of money...

Jope this helps.
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Scuba Wino
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Joined: 31 Jan 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eggs4Lunch wrote:
Thanks much for the info. This sort of a story really helps the rest of us to avoid problems and is one of the best parts of boards like this.

Eggs


I'm so glad I found this board, I just wish I found it sooner. I have gotten a lot of info from here and just thought tha my experience might save someone some money...hopefully.

SW
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Keithtj
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Joined: 05 Jan 2004
Location: Out of jail now

PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, you might save some money in the future by going to a smaller shop that you trust over the dealership. Most dealerships are overpriced. But glad you got everything fixed, though it was an expensive experience.
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Scuba Wino
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Joined: 31 Jan 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA

PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keithtj wrote:
Also, you might save some money in the future by going to a smaller shop that you trust over the dealership. Most dealerships are overpriced. But glad you got everything fixed, though it was an expensive experience.


I've always thought that dealers were overpriced too, but I have always taken my car there...I guess, just so I know that if there is a problem in the future (relataing to the work done), it would be under waranty.

A good example is:

After I bought the Jeep (New) I had it in for it's 30,000 mile service. This was to include the rear differentials. Well, a few thousand miles later, my wife and I were in Nor-Cal shopping out new houses for the upcoming move and we start hearing this really bad GRINDING noise coming form the back of the Jepp. Now it only happened when I decreased my speed to say, go around a curve or some other little times.

I take it to the local dealer and they tell me that my differentials are bone dry and "burned up". They need to be completely replaced (or whatever..I sell wine, not work on cars remember). Well I tell him that I just had them serviced, pull out the receipt (why it was with me, to this day I still have no idea). He tells me so..and it's going to be "X" amount of dollars. He tells me that whomever serviced them, didn't replace the 1ounce of fluid after they drained it out to service the diff's.

I call the dealer in So-Cal that did the service and he says...oops....sorry...tell them to fix it and send me the bill.

Done, that was it? Wow, okay. The next morning, I have my Jeep back and am driving back to So-cal.

I guess that's why I've always taken it to dealers and pay the "Over" price. It's kind of a security thing, I guess....or my O.C.D....LOL

Have a great day, cheers

Scuba Wino
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TJgirl
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Joined: 15 Jan 2004
Location: California

PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2006 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

very informative, thanks for the infoe Cool
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