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Just bought a 87 XJ, help me fix the problems


 
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RudeAwakening Motorsports
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Joined: 15 Feb 2006
Location: Grand Forks, ND

PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 1:23 pm    Post subject: Just bought a 87 XJ, help me fix the problems Reply with quote

Ok I bought a 87 Jeep Cherokee Lardo last weekend and I'm having just fun fixing the problems.

1. No rear brakes, when I step on the brakes the front will stop and lock up but the back will keep moving. I hear a vacuum leak from under the hood when I step on the brakes but don't know where to look.

2. Oil leak-I'm getting a pretty big oil leak which ends up dripping on the exhaust and burning. Its coming out from the driver side underneith the jeep.

3. Heater problem- If the temp rises above the 205 mark, I lose my heat. I did switch the jeep over to the open radiator system since when I bought it the radiator was bad.

4. Windows-locks - Seems like they're not getting enough power to work.

5. idle - most of the time it will idle at 1500 but sometimes it will rise up to the 3k mark and after I pump the gas it goes back down to the 500ish rpm range.

6. Tranny - Tranny doesn't want to upshift unless I basically have full throttle. Also when braking/slowing down, it shifts like a manual going from one gear to the other.

I really appreciate any help and apologize for having such a long post. Thanks
=Jason-
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1fox2go
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Joined: 01 Dec 2004
Location: Fishersville, Virginia

PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the idling could be a TPS problem or gumed up throttle body

as for brakes does the rear have brake shoes?

oil leak could be a rear main seal
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ThePhantum
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Joined: 23 Jan 2004
Location: I knew it...I'm surrounded by Assholes!

PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 9:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Just bought a 87 XJ, help me fix the problems Reply with quote

I think you have a vacuum problem someplace. That would affect idle, shifting and the heat/ac ducting. There's no easy solution there...just start tracing and testing vacuum lines.

Since you have front brakes, but no rears I don't think vacuum is necessarily the problem there. First off, inspect the rear brakes. Make sure all the springs, shoes and misc parts are good. Then make sure that the rears are adjusted properly...that could be the problem right there. Failing that, check the wheel cylinders and make sure they are working. Then check for kinks in the lines by tracing them/it all the way back to the master cylinder.

The oil leak is most likely coming from one of 2 places: the valve cover or the rear main seal. The earlier 4.0's are prone to blowby problems, which can, among other things (like oil in the air filter), cause oil leaks at the valve cover. Clicky for a writeup on blowby.

Do the windows and locks work sluggishly or not at all? If they are sluggish, do they work better when the engine is running?
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RudeAwakening Motorsports
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Joined: 15 Feb 2006
Location: Grand Forks, ND

PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys for the tips, I start working tommarrow, today I had to dig the jeep out of the snow since I was stupid and highcentered it. Damn open diffs. I still think that the rear brakes have to do with an vacuum leak since I can hear that hissing when I step on the breaks. The locks/windows don't work at all with the engine off and very slow with engine on. Would a good cleaning fix it? Hoping the leak is the valve cover, I did pull the cover off the filter and I'm getting blow-by. I'll try to fix that tommarrow.
=Jason-
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91 Nissan Pathfinder SE
95 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
99 Ford ZX2
87 Kawasaki Ninja 750R
....Too many toys!
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ThePhantum
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Joined: 23 Jan 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're getting oil in the air filter it's a 95% chance that the valve cover is leaking too. Fix the blowby and replace the valve cover gasket and you should be good to go. That's not to say that the rear main seal isn't leaking as well...it's another thing the 4.0L is notorious for. It's pretty easy to fix, but it's time consuming since you have to drop the oil pan.

The reason I say it's probably not vacuum affecting the brakes, is because you have front brakes and can lock them up. That would be very difficult without vacuum assist, which boosts the entire braking system (at the master cylinder) and not the front and rears independently. If you find a vacuum problem and repair it, I'd be surprised if the rear brakes started working.

There could be a bad switch or connection in the windows/door locks. Before ripping off the door panels, I would look at the charging/battery system first though.
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IBTJn
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree 100% with Phantum. Not that I'm any kind of expert, but my old 88 MJ had similar problems (excluding the window/locks). And I agree on the brakes, too. Nothing short of inspection and tracing can really 100% say for sure.

Chrysler sells a simple vacuum kit that needs to be replaced periodically. It's been several years, so I don't know the part number, etc. But it is a direct replacement including the rigid vacuum lines. Took me about 20 minutes to install. Once I did that, about 50% of the problems went away. From there it was a matter of replacing the remainder of the vacuum lines (piece of cake), the PCV valve, and valve cover gasket to fix my oil leak. I had a very slow drip from the main seal, but not enough to worry about.

Don't know about the heat problem, but if were me I'd start with the vacuum lines first. If you are correct on it being part of the brake problem (which I also doubt), then that may help. IMO one step at a time you might find some of the issues you've mentioned actually begin to go away.

Just my $.02
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RudeAwakening Motorsports
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Joined: 15 Feb 2006
Location: Grand Forks, ND

PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really appreciate all the help and plan on diving into the jeep next week after my montana ski trip. Another quick question though, is it normal for the vent/heat setting to be much colder than the defrost? I ask this because driving around on defrost the air is much warmer than on the other two settings. Strange.
=Jason-
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87 Jeep Cherokee XJ
91 Nissan Pathfinder SE
95 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
99 Ford ZX2
87 Kawasaki Ninja 750R
....Too many toys!
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LicKwiD
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Joined: 23 Jan 2006
Location: Bethlehem

PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 7:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Just bought a 87 XJ, help me fix the problems Reply with quote

RudeAwakening Motorsports wrote:
Ok I bought a 87 Jeep Cherokee Lardo last weekend and I'm having just fun fixing the problems.

1. No rear brakes, when I step on the brakes the front will stop and lock up but the back will keep moving. I hear a vacuum leak from under the hood when I step on the brakes but don't know where to look.

2. Oil leak-I'm getting a pretty big oil leak which ends up dripping on the exhaust and burning. Its coming out from the driver side underneith the jeep.

3. Heater problem- If the temp rises above the 205 mark, I lose my heat. I did switch the jeep over to the open radiator system since when I bought it the radiator was bad.

4. Windows-locks - Seems like they're not getting enough power to work.

5. idle - most of the time it will idle at 1500 but sometimes it will rise up to the 3k mark and after I pump the gas it goes back down to the 500ish rpm range.

6. Tranny - Tranny doesn't want to upshift unless I basically have full throttle. Also when braking/slowing down, it shifts like a manual going from one gear to the other.

I really appreciate any help and apologize for having such a long post. Thanks
=Jason-


I just recently purchased my 93 xj sport 4x4 and i am currently fixing little things here and there, and have encountered the same things you have.

1. ok no rear brakes, i dont believe its vacuum related due to the front brakes working, try adj the rear tension on the drums, as well as the condition of the shoe and drum. I too hear an air leak up front when i press the brake, however i have no solution for that at this time, other than possibly a leak in the vacuum hose going to the manifold from the master cylinder.

2. oil leaks, i just redid my valve cover gasket *also stripped and repainted it while it was off* while the cover is off you can scrape the inside free of carbon build up and clean the baffles in the cover also. i used rtv sealant for the baffles. Got a 1 piece cork gasket and used rtv with that as well. so far no signs of leak, but make sure you tighten that bad boy down. Next on my leak list is the oil pan gasket, and the rear oil seal while the pan is off. both inexpensive parts to replace. 1 piece for the oil pan gasket will be the easiest route. After that there is the oil filter adapter. its an L shaped piece to change the direction the oil filter sits on the engine, that has 3 gaskets in it and may also be a culprit. The oil filter itself has a gasket also, change the filter.

3. so are you telling us that your radiator is bad? and by that you mean how? it leaks? it is broken somehow? That is a number 1 priority there, i would get this fixed and change back to stock setup. Another thing you may want to analyze is your water pump. there is a weep hole for early sign of giving out. if you see coolant comming from it, its time to replace that water pump. while doing this you can also change the upper and lower radiator hoses, and thermostat & gasket. new coolant and your good to go. i also had to change my heater control valve, over time it got brittle and broke on me, $16 later the part is swapped out. This may be the devil in your heat loss. maybe..

4. so you have power windows? and when you try to roll them down they start to roll, and seem to die as if the batt was dead? if so , you may just need to spray some silicone spray along the track for the window and get it from top to bottom and see if that gets it going again. this should work for manual windows too..

5 & 6. this could be the tps seeing the symptoms your having wih the tranny not shifting. when this happend to me the truck would stall on me when i would give it gas. when you trompted on it though it would go but not shift. For the idle, get a can of throttle body cleaner and take the iac off the tb, clean that good, and clean the tb using the cleaner. ultimately the iac may be bad, but diagnostics would show that.

Blowby is due to those grommets on the valve cover. When you have the cover off to do your maintenance above, you'll want to go to the dealer and get the ccv grommet in the rear, and the hose comming off of it. Other say due both grommets and vacuum hoses, but the front grommet has a bigger opening then the one in the rear, and easy to clean and the hose going into the filter housing can be replaced easily. The opening on the filter housing can be cleaned the same as the front grommet. so far no problems yet. of course replace the air filter if its got oil on it.

Lastly the only thing i can comment on is , get urself a tune up kit, i got one off e bay for under 70 bux. supposedly uses stock parts, i just swapped out my spark plugs, wires, dizzy cap, and rotor, fuel filter , oil filter, and air filter all included in the kit. Trucks running strong, after these few upgrades ive made. hope this helps.

Jason
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catheadred
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Joined: 17 Feb 2006
Location: claxton,gerogia

PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

put a vacumn guage on the engine at a manifold vacumn source.you should have 27 to 29 inches of vacumn. if you dont the blowby may be from worn oil rings or a burnt or galled piston.if your pcv system is stopped up you will have to much pressure in the oil pan and it will cause your engine to leak oil from any weak gasket it can find.also perform a compression test on the engine, both wet and dry. these test will determine if you have any internal engine problems before you waste a lot of money trying to fix oil leaks and blow by problems
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