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battery isolator

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Joined: 12 Aug 2008

PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 9:25 pm    Post subject: battery isolator Reply with quote

ok so i want to run two batterys, but i dont want them to run off each other. the one up front will be my main and the one in back will be my audio one. I have a power sonic battery that i am going to run for my secondary.

but how do i wire it to not run off each other?
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Joined: 01 Jan 2004
Location: Eastern PA

PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd start by googling "battery isolator". This seems to be a rather informative search result for you to start with.

There were many more under the google results I received.
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Joined: 21 Dec 2008
Location: Behind you! That's my grill in your rearview mirror!

PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 6:17 pm    Post subject: Dual Battery Isolator Kit Reply with quote

I just finished installing a dual battery kit in my XJ. It was pretty straight forward.

I removed the factory air cleaner & box.

In that space I mounted a flat battery support tray. It is mounted behind the headlamp & forward of the indented area that is in front of the drivers side shock mount. I used some SS all-thread , bolts & fender washers as support "arms." The tray does sit on a slight slant (not a problem with a dry cell battery on it's side).

I replaced the factory air cleaner with an after-market high-flow K&N style cone air filter. It conveniently hangs down into that recess in front of the drivers side shock mount.

I mounted a leak-proof drycell battery on it's side (Optima Redtop 34/7Cool, with the terminals pointed towards the fender (and away from the engine where an errant wrench may contact the termials). The terminals that I used came with industrial covers.

I then used a "Vortex Dual Battery Kit" that I found on EBay for $99. It included the isolation solenoid, LOOOONG lengths of cables, termination loops, fuses & fittings, and an neat dash mounted LED Battery Charging & Monitoring panel. Watch their auctions, as they usually only list one of these at a time.

The cool thing about the dash panel, is that it will allow you to "close the solenoid" from within the cab. What this means.... your primary battery goes dead...., so you press & hold an override button to close the solenoid, the second battery engages with the primary, and you have "jump started yourself!"

For those with winches or other extra heavy temporary demands upon the electrical system - you can tie the batteries together to get the extra amps you need to power that heavy load!

During my installation, I chose to upgrade the battery terminals & fuses to large Tsunami Brand AGU type fuses. I also added an auxiliary fuse block to power driving lights, an alarm system, back-up lights, and a rear seat 12VDC-110VAC converter.

Over all with the extra battery, upgraded components, air-intake, etc. this probably cost me around $450. It took about 16 hours with all of the retro-fitting & wiring through the firewall.
Lead, follow, or get out of the way... Better yet, get out of here & go buy me lunch!
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