This was kind of an adventure lining it up on my own.
What I ended up`doing was getting it under the Jeep using the floor
jack and then
setting it on jackstands. I would then shift it around on the stands
and reset the floor jack. After a couple of resets I finally had it
lined up and installed the new u-bolts/nutplates as well as the shocks
and connected the driveshaft and brakeline.
Now, it was on to the e-brake install. The parking brake is
incorporated into the caliper. You can see in this pic where the
parking brake cable goes. The cable runs through the spring and
connects to the lever.
This step could not be skipped as the rear calipers adjust off the
parking brake. The rear calipers utilize a one way clutch inside the
caliper pistons. When the parking brake is applied the clutch senses
when there is .030" or more clearance between the friction material and
the rotor on the inboard side. When there is more than .030" the clutch
turns inside the piston adjusting it out keeping the rear brakes
adjusted. If the parking brake is not set every time the Jeep is
parked, it will start to lose brake pedal (low and spongy) and the
adjuster mechanism will not work any longer.
Although, it sounds like it was
really just a matter of installing
the cables onto the calipers...it was a bit more than that. The springs
on the stock cables have to be removed as they will bind up with the
system on the GM calipers (which was a PITA to do). In addition, the
stock, drivers side cable is just barely long enough to reach from the
frame to the caliper when the axle it at full droop. It will no longer
reach when I lift the Jeep further, so I will eventually need to have
some longer ones made.
The`final step was to bleed the
. Since most of the fluid
had dripped out of the main line, first I used a vacuum pump to draw
fluid back to the calipers. I started on the passenger side which is
furthest away from the master cylinder. While constantly checking the
master cylinder fluid level, I used vacuum to keep drawing fluid until
no more air bubbles were present. I then did the same for the drivers
calipers (especially rears) have all kinds of crevices
that can trap air, it was time for a gravity bleed. To do this I
removed the caliper from the bracket, then holding the caliper so that
the flex hose was going up hill and the bleeder screw was at the top, I
opened the bleeder and tapped the caliper with a rubber mallet a few
times to knock any air loose. This procedure was repeated for the
After one more, quick bleed with the
vacuum pump (and filling the diff
with synthetic gear oil), it was time for a test drive. There is a
noticeable increase in stopping power, although the pedal was a bit
lower then it had been. I'm going to keep an eye on how the rear pads
wear over time to determine if I can bring the pedal up by adding some
Proportioning feels fine and there
are no weird pulls or anything, even
under hard/emergency braking.
Overall, I am very happy with the result...now I just
have to git 'er offroad!
- Please note that this writeup reflects my experiences only and anyone
using it for reference or as a guide, etc. does so at their own risk.
You may link to this writeup, but you must obtain my permission to
re-post it elsewhere.***