Welcome to the
exciting world of putting Sway
Bar Disconnects on your Jeep. This write-up is going to be split into
four different sections:
Tools, Prep, Removal, and Installation. If anyone would like to comment
on this write up please let me know by posting
without further ado, on to Tools.
off, a small disclaimer- these are the
tools that I used. I have a lot of tools. I used to work at a pawn shop
and bought tools for pennies on the dollar. I know not everyone will
have everything that I have, so either make do or go buy some.
- PB Blaster
- Grease (any lithium or multi-use grease
- Torch (with a full cylinder of either MAPP
Gas or Propane)
- Mechanix Gloves
- 19mm or 3/4" Gear Wrench (If you don't
have a gear wrench go buy a set, they are worth it in the long run)
- Needlenose Pliers
- Linesman Pliers
- Pry Bar
- Medium Size Vise Grips
- BFH- at least a 4 lb hammer
- Tie Rod Separator/ Pickle Fork (This Item
is an absolute necessity, I
would never do another set without one. The are available for less than
$10 at your local auto parts store.)
- Big Floor Jack
- Scissor Jack (The factory YJ Jack)
- Bottle Jack (2 ton or so)
Part 1: PB
Blaster 2 times a day for 2 days
prior, more if you
have time. A good idea is to start blasting them the day that you order
them, then when they get there you can start.
Prep Part 2:
Jack up your front end and take the tires off. MAKE
SURE THAT YOU USE JACK STANDS TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF YOUR JEEP. MAKE
SURE THAT YOUR JACKS ARE IN GOOD SHAPE AND IN THE CORRECT POSITION.
Prep Part 3: Do this
right before you start
beating on anything. Only use the torch if you have new bushings for
your new sway bar links and always use appropriate safety equipment and
precautions when using a torch.
Jack up your front end and take the tires off. Remove the pin (w/
needlenose pliers) and Caster Nut (w/19mm wrench) from the TOP bolt.
Use the linesman pliers to straighten the pin back out. Take your
torch, I used Mapp Gas (be very careful of your brake lines, they don't
like the heat). You want to torch the bushing that holds on the link.
Try and concentrate on the side of the link that is closest to the
actual sway bar. Burn it for at least 5 minutes. You want the bushing
start sparking. You are trying to melt the bushing far enough to get
your pickle fork in.
Take your bottle
jack and jack up the U-Bolt
Plate enough to relieve
the pressure off of the BOTTOM of the stock link. To remove the links,
first remove the BOTTOM nut off of the sway bar link from the U-Bolt
plates on BOTH SIDES (w/19mm wrench). You may need the pry bar to get
the links loose. Make sure and do both bottoms - you will see why
bottom is off, take your pickle for and position it at
the 12 O'Clock position of the top of the burnt bushing. Now beat the
heck out of the end of the pickle fork, hammering downwards. The fork
needs to be at least halfway down the retaining bolt. Now pull and
push, pull and push. You have to put all of your weight into it.
Eventually the link will come off. IT WILL BE HOT, DON'T TOUCH IT WITH
BARE HANDS. Place the link/bolt somewhere it can cool (H20).
Repeat on the
After you have both
links off, place them on a
flat surface and hammer
the bolts out of the stock links. NOTE THE WAY THAT THE LINK IS FACING
BEFORE YOU HAMMER THE BOLT OUT. This should only take 1 or 2 hits. On
the same flat surface apply some grease to the inside of the bushing of
the new links. Then tap the bolts in to the new links with the link
facing the same direction that the stock link was.
Place the top
bolt in first. The bottom of the link probably will not
line up with the threads on the U-Bolt plate. Get your scissor jack out
and wedge it underneath the sway bar and start jacking slowly. You need
to get the bottom link to line up with the threads on the U-Bolt plate.
it should be easy to do, since you should have removed both sway bar
links earlier. Now screw on the caster nut and start to tighten it
(w/19mm Wrench). The head of the bolt facing you should be held in
place with the vise grips. Once the caster nut in on really tight,
place the pin back through the bolt with the needle nose pliers. Then
tighten down the washer and nut on the lower link.
Use a little
bit of anti-seize on your lug nuts when you put your wheel
back on and you're all set.