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Removing YJ Swaybar Links/Installing Disconnects

Author: qadhafi

Welcome to the exciting world of putting Sway Bar Disconnects on your Jeep. This write-up is going to be split into four different sections: Tools, Prep, Removal, and Installation. If anyone would like to comment on this write up please let me know by posting or PM'ing me. Now, without further ado, on to Tools.

TOOLS

First off, a small disclaimer- these are the tools that I used. I have a lot of tools. I used to work at a pawn shop and bought tools for pennies on the dollar. I know not everyone will have everything that I have, so either make do or go buy some.


PREP

Prep Part 1: PB Blaster 2 times a day for 2 days prior, more if you have time. A good idea is to start blasting them the day that you order them, then when they get there you can start.

Prep Part 2: Jack up your front end and take the tires off. MAKE SURE THAT YOU USE JACK STANDS TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF YOUR JEEP. MAKE SURE THAT YOUR JACKS ARE IN GOOD SHAPE AND IN THE CORRECT POSITION.

Prep Part 3: Do this right before you start beating on anything. Only use the torch if you have new bushings for your new sway bar links and always use appropriate safety equipment and precautions when using a torch. Jack up your front end and take the tires off. Remove the pin (w/ needlenose pliers) and Caster Nut (w/19mm wrench) from the TOP bolt. Use the linesman pliers to straighten the pin back out. Take your torch, I used Mapp Gas (be very careful of your brake lines, they don't like the heat). You want to torch the bushing that holds on the link. Try and concentrate on the side of the link that is closest to the actual sway bar. Burn it for at least 5 minutes. You want the bushing to start sparking. You are trying to melt the bushing far enough to get your pickle fork in.

REMOVAL

Take your bottle jack and jack up the U-Bolt Plate enough to relieve the pressure off of the BOTTOM of the stock link. To remove the links, first remove the BOTTOM nut off of the sway bar link from the U-Bolt plates on BOTH SIDES (w/19mm wrench). You may need the pry bar to get the links loose. Make sure and do both bottoms - you will see why later.

After the bottom is off, take your pickle for and position it at the 12 O'Clock position of the top of the burnt bushing. Now beat the heck out of the end of the pickle fork, hammering downwards. The fork needs to be at least halfway down the retaining bolt. Now pull and push, pull and push. You have to put all of your weight into it. Eventually the link will come off. IT WILL BE HOT, DON'T TOUCH IT WITH BARE HANDS. Place the link/bolt somewhere it can cool (H20).

Repeat on the other side.

INSTALLATION

After you have both links off, place them on a flat surface and hammer the bolts out of the stock links. NOTE THE WAY THAT THE LINK IS FACING BEFORE YOU HAMMER THE BOLT OUT. This should only take 1 or 2 hits. On the same flat surface apply some grease to the inside of the bushing of the new links. Then tap the bolts in to the new links with the link facing the same direction that the stock link was.

Place the top bolt in first. The bottom of the link probably will not line up with the threads on the U-Bolt plate. Get your scissor jack out and wedge it underneath the sway bar and start jacking slowly. You need to get the bottom link to line up with the threads on the U-Bolt plate. it should be easy to do, since you should have removed both sway bar links earlier. Now screw on the caster nut and start to tighten it (w/19mm Wrench). The head of the bolt facing you should be held in place with the vise grips. Once the caster nut in on really tight, place the pin back through the bolt with the needle nose pliers. Then tighten down the washer and nut on the lower link.

Use a little bit of anti-seize on your lug nuts when you put your wheel back on and you're all set.

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